When Marisi La Jolla opened in 2022, it introduced a new level of Italian fine dining to La Jolla Village. The space exudes vintage coastal glamour with beautiful art deco flourishes throughout. Guests can dine inside the stylish Lemon Room, at the marble bar, or enjoy the fresh ocean breeze on the patio or deck.
Marisi executive chef Cameron Ingle, who joined the restaurant in August 2023, brings a wealth of experience from working with some of the country’s most celebrated chefs, including Thomas Keller at Bouchon Bistro, Ori Menashe at Bestia and Bavel, and Dan Barber at Blue Hill at Stone Barns.
Ingle’s reverence for old-world Italian technique, particularly using a wood-fired hearth, resonates in many dishes.
“It’s disciplined cooking,” Ingle said. “It takes seven minutes to cook a piece of swordfish on the hearth versus two minutes on a cooktop.”
But as Frank and I discovered, the results are worth the wait.
Our server, Lucas Isumi, and Chef Ingle guided us through an extraordinary tasting — seven antipasti, two pastas, a main, dessert and a curated lineup of wine pairings. This culinary journey revealed the kitchen’s devotion to seasonality, thoughtful restraint, and perfect execution.
We began with focaccia, organic Tehachapi red fife flour baked to a lightly crisped on the outside and cloud-soft within a round loaf. This was served with roasted green garlic dip, whipped brown butter, and aged balsamic. It was the perfect welcome bite, paired with Private Property Chardonnay, a creamy, fruit-forward white that lifted the richness of the bread and butter with its bright acidity, melding with the acidity of the aged balsamic.
The next float in our culinary parade featured three beautifully plated antipasti. Local Crudo delivered pristine slices of raw local fish served with calamansi vinaigrette, shallots, and crispy capers, creating a nice tang for the crudo.
The Chicken Liver Mousse was silky and savory, paired with jujube purée and large seasoned crackers for a satisfying contrast of textures. The Tomato Tartare, brightened with caper, roasted garlic, and basil aioli, and served with grilled sourdough, was a great example of Marisi’s Italian prowess.
The next trio of dishes came straight from the hearth. Blistered and smoky, grilled beets were cut into cubes and served with creamy smoked goat cheese, pistachio, and raspberry. The combination evolved into a pink hue perfect for each beet bite.
Colossal prawns were roasted over hot embers and served with salsa roja, charred just enough to add intensity while preserving their natural sweetness. The Hearth-Roasted Bone Marrow was melt-in-your-mouth magic, topped with breadcrumbs, roasted garlic, and Calabrian chili that brought a delightful hint of spice.
These bold and nuanced flavors were enhanced by thoughtful wine selections curated by Sommelier Chris Plaia, who has led Marisi’s extensive wine and cocktail program for the past 2.5 years.
With these antipasti, we sampled a flight of Italian wines: the crisp Tre Monti Albana, the mineral-driven Picariello Greco di Tufo, and the earthy Calabretta Etna Rosso from Sicily. Each wine played beautifully against the hearth’s smoky intensity and the antipasti’s varied profiles.
We followed with two pasta dishes showcasing Marisi’s commitment to handmade excellence. The Rigatoni stood out, tossed in a fresh pomodoro sauce with Calabrian chili for subtle heat, stracciatella cheese for creamy richness, and basil for balance.
Each bite was soulful and satisfying. The Carbonara featured bucatini noodles tossed with Winfield Farms bacon, egg yolk, and black pepper. For a limited time, it also included freshly foraged morel mushrooms from Northern California, adding an earthy richness to the dish. It was rich and comforting, complementing the standout rigatoni.
The main course, local halibut, was a crown jewel of the evening. Perfectly seared and flaky, it rested on a silky potato purée with chanterelle mushrooms and a kiss of lemon juice. The La Colombera Colli Tortonesi, with gentle creaminess from malolactic fermentation, elevated the dish even further, accentuating the fusion of the halibut and mushrooms.
To end the evening, we were presented with the Gelato della Nonna Cake. Built upon a pine nut sponge, the layers included semifreddo, strawberry basil sorbet, and vanilla bean gelato, drizzled with a touch of syrup and served with a pour of Antica Torino Amaro della Sacra—a perfect finale that whispered of Italian summers and Nonna’s kitchen.
“Marisi” is a word blending the names of owners Alex Adler, Eric Adler, Alan Adler, Moy Lombrozo, and Isidoro Lombrozo’s grandparents: Marila and Isidoro. It evokes family, history, and care, qualities that shine in every detail, from service to wine curation to Chef Ingle’s elegant dishes kissed by their Santa Maria hearth and the extra time it takes to cook food in the hearth’s embers.
For those seeking Italian excellence in La Jolla, Marisi is not just a destination; it’s a celebration of craftsmanship, heart, and culinary joy. Marisi is open for dinner Sunday through Thursday from 5 to 9 p.m., and Friday and Saturday until 10 p.m. Brunch is served Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. For more information or reservations, visit marisilajolla.com.
— Story by Rico Cassoni
Wine Bytes
Del Mar’s West End Bar & Kitchen is hosting a Duckhorn Vineyards five-course winemaker dinner at 6 p.m. on April 24. The main course, crafted by West End executive chef Brian Gist, is Grilled New York Strip Steak with horseradish whipped potatoes and roasted asparagus, paired with Paraduxx Red Blend. The cost is $130 per person and includes tax and tip. RSVP at 858-259-5878.
