A trip to the kelp
A mask and snorkel and a pair of fins can lead to an adventure you’ll never forget.
Waterspot
‘We’re on fire!’
It seems strange to contemplate now, but in 1990 there were no surf films concerning what I have termed the “Longboard Renaissance.”
Surf shacks
I moved into my first house on 3rd and G Street in Encinitas in the summer of 1970. The rent was $100 a month.
In praise of ‘junk’ surf
Even after I had lived in North County for decades, I would often show up, surfboard in hand, just as the wind turned.
Surf community gathers to honor Takayama
It seemed that three quarters of surf history was in one room on April 24 to celebrate Donald Moke Takayama.
The purest form of wave riding
Being good at bodysurfing, which I am not, requires timing, technique, and agility.
Old faithful
Thank you, Skip Frye, for the best surfboard I ever owned.
Paving the way to dirty water
As a young surfer, when it was pouring rain, the thinking was, “Hey, you’re getting wet anyway, why not go all the way?”
A storm surf memory
That wave had more force behind it than anything I had ever experienced this side of Hawaii.
What cats have taught me about surfing and life
Before I ever shared a house with a cat, the thought of a water-phobic feline teaching a surfer anything seemed absurd.
