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Executive Chef Stefano Ceresoli holding a pan of fresh made focaccia bread next to a vat of homemade Bolognese meat sauce. Photo by Rico Cassoni.
Piazza 1909 executive chef Stefano Ceresoli holding a pan of housemade focaccia bread next to a vat of homemade Bolognese meat sauce. Photo by Rico Cassoni
ColumnsFood & WineTaste of Wine

The Italian legacy of Piazza 1909 in La Jolla

The story of Piazza 1909 Cucina Italiana begins in Milan, Italy, where Roberta Ruffini and executive chef Stefano Ceresoli first met. Stefano owned a bakery, pasta, and focaccia shop across from Roberta’s home. Though she was engaged at the time, meeting Stefano changed everything.

In 1993, Roberta moved to San Diego to complete her master’s degree while working for a large hotel chain. The couple saw each other a few times during her studies, but when faced with the choice to renew her visa or return to Milan to be with Stefano, she chose the latter.

In 1996, Roberta and Stefano married, moved to San Diego and opened their first restaurant, Caffè Bella Italia, in Kearny Mesa. Three years later, they launched a second location in Pacific Beach. In 2006, they sold the Kearny Mesa restaurant to sign a lease for Solare Ristorante at Liberty Station.

“Solare was a huge project,” Roberta said. “We had to oversee and complete everything, from mechanical and plumbing to electrical.”

Pizza Salsiccia, Ricotta e Pesto at Piazza 1909 with ricotta cheese, Italian sausage, fresh pesto, and crispy fried artichokes. Photo by Rico Cassoni
Pizza Salsiccia, Ricotta e Pesto at Piazza 1909 with ricotta cheese, Italian sausage, fresh pesto, and crispy fried artichokes. Photo by Rico Cassoni

After getting Solare operational, they sold both Solare and Caffè Bella Italia in 2013. They took six months off to relax with their children before purchasing Piazza 1909 in 2014 with their business partner, Brent Nelson. Their vision was to restore the historic 1909 La Jolla beach house, transforming it into a “piazza where friends and family can enjoy food, wine, and conversation.

Piazza 1909 exudes warmth and charm with multiple dining spaces, including a front patio, side covered patio, back covered patio, inside dining room, and a cozy lounge and wine bar. On Thursdays, guests are treated to live music, adding to the restaurant’s inviting ambiance.

As Frank and I approached Piazza 1909, the rich aroma of Bolognese sauce filled the air. Inside, the lantern-lit ceiling, Italian chatter, and warm greetings from Roberta instantly transported us to Italy.

Shortly after arriving, we met Stefano, a passionate Milan-born chef who brought the heart of Mediterranean dining to La Jolla. His philosophy centers on slow food, a European movement focused on high-quality, organic, and locally sourced ingredients.

Pappardelle alla Bolognese - Freshly made long strands of ribbon-like pasta tossed in rich and meaty Bolognese sauce. Photo by Rico Cassoni
Pappardelle alla Bolognese, with freshly made strands of pasta tossed in rich, meaty sauce. Photo by Rico Cassoni

Everything is made from scratch — from bread and focaccia to pizza dough and gluten-free alternatives. You won’t find a can opener in their kitchen. Stefano also incorporates family recipes, including Roberta’s mother Bice’s lasagna, ravioli, and Bolognese, made fresh daily.

Stefano started us off with Pizza Salsiccia, Ricotta e Pesto, a 36-hour proofed dough topped with ricotta cheese, Italian sausage, fresh pesto, and crispy fried artichokes. The fried artichokes, dusted in rice flour and deep-fried, provided a light and flavorful contrast to the creamy ricotta and savory sausage. The lighter-than-air crust and ingredients created a pizza lover’s dream.

For wine, Frank enjoyed a 2021 San Felice Chianti Classico, while I had the 2022 Colterenzio Lagrein Classico. As expected, the selection of Italian wines was plentiful, with a good selection of by-the-glass options. Cocktails, draft beers, and bottled beers provide guests additional beverage options.

Brasato al Barolo su Risotto: Tender braised short ribs in a Barolo wine reduction, served over saffron risotto with broccoli and heirloom carrots. Photo by Rico Cassoni
Brasato al Barolo su Risotto: Tender braised short ribs in a Barolo wine reduction, served over saffron risotto with broccoli and heirloom carrots. Photo by Rico Cassoni

After mentioning my love for pappardelle, Stefano surprised us with Pappardelle alla Bolognese. The freshly made long strands of ribbon-like pasta were perfectly cooked and tossed in his rich and meaty Bolognese. This dish was a knockout.

We also had the Brasato al Barolo su Risotto. Tender braised short ribs were prepared with a Barolo wine reduction and served over saffron risotto with broccoli and heirloom carrots. The fork-tender short ribs melted in our mouths, while the saffron risotto provided the perfect creamy base.

Although we didn’t have room for their lasagna, we spotted a fresh plate heading to a guest’s table. It looked like six or seven layers of pure indulgence. For non-traditional Italian options, when on the menu, the ribeye is dry-aged for 28 days, and their salmon is sourced from Patagonia.

Dessert was a Chocolate Lover Bar created by Pastry Chef Eva Furletti. This gluten-free, vegan treat combines chocolate ganache, dates, pecans, almonds, pineapple flambé, and crunchy almonds. It was a true masterpiece.

Chocolate Lover Bar combined chocolate ganache, dates, pecans, almonds, pineapple flambé, and crunchy almonds. Photo by Rico Cassoni
Chocolate Lover Bar combines chocolate ganache, dates, pecans, almonds, pineapple flambé, and crunchy almonds. Photo by Rico Cassoni

This April, Piazza 1909 will celebrate its 10th anniversary with a dinner under the stars, evoking the feel of a classic Italian food festival. The event will feature regional prix-fixe dishes from their original menu.

Bottom line, Piazza 1909 is more than a restaurant. It’s a family-run business where the owners are hands-on every day. Roberta manages events, wine selection, menu planning, and marketing, while Stefano brings his Milanese heritage to the kitchen.

Their son Alberto is the general manager, and their two other sons also work at the restaurant. Dog lovers will be happy that Piazza 1909 is dog-friendly and offers a special dog menu. If you’re in La Jolla near the Cove, Piazza 1909 should be at the top of your dining list.

Whether for dinner, happy hour (Tuesday-Thursday, 4:30-6 p.m.), catering, private events or even cooking classes, it’s the perfect place to enjoy authentic Italian cuisine with heart and soul.

Buon Appetito!

— Story by Rico Cassoni

Rico Cassoni is the executive producer for Taste of Wine and Food. He and Founder/Advisor Frank Mangio, a renowned wine connoisseur certified by Wine Spectator, are two of the leading reviewers on the web. View their columns at tasteofwineandfood.com. Reach them at [email protected].                               

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