Chef Accursio Lota and Corinne Goria, the husband-and-wife team behind North Park’s acclaimed Cori Pastificio Trattoria, a Gambero Rosso Tre Forchette awardee, have opened Dora Ristorante in La Jolla’s Theatre District.
Since its Nov. 20 debut, the restaurant has drawn immediate attention not only for Lota’s résumé, which includes Barilla’s “World Pasta Champion” title and experience in Michelin-starred kitchens, but for the deeply personal story behind the name.
Named for his grandmother, Dora reflects Lota’s upbringing in Menfi along Sicily’s southwestern coast. Childhood memories of running through artichoke fields, preserving tomatoes, and preparing freshly caught tuna at his Nonna’s table shape a menu grounded in tradition and refined through technique.
“So much of my cooking is rooted in the smells and sounds of my Nonna’s home,” Lota said. “Opening Dora in La Jolla feels like picking up a thread from home.”
The 3,800-square-foot space, designed by Bells and Whistles and anchored by a sweeping bar overlooking the open kitchen, channels Southern Italy’s coastal warmth through sun-washed tones and artisan tilework. Chef de cuisine Luis Esteva, whose background includes Kettner Exchange and Nolita Hall, works alongside Lota in executing the restaurant’s coastal Sicilian vision.
Behind the bar, Mediterranean botanicals, citrus, and amaro-driven cocktails complement a thoughtful wine list curated by sommelier and wine director Lucas Isumi, highlighting coastal Italian and West Coast producers with an emphasis on indigenous varietals. Guiding the dining room is General Manager Steven Schwob, formerly of Trust Restaurant Group and Marisi.
In January, a Gambero Rosso inspector visited and left impressed. Dora now stands as just the seventh restaurant in the United States to earn the prestigious Tre Forchette distinction, a remarkable milestone only weeks after opening.
The award was announced the day before our visit, and Chef Luis and General Manager Steven Schwob were radiating pride as they shared the news.
Dora’s pre-theatre prix fixe menu ($65) reflects both creativity and efficiency. The current pre-dinner offering, inspired by the La Jolla Playhouse’s production “The Recipe” by Claudia Shear, an homage to Julia Child, allows guests to select an appetizer, second course, and dolci, with the option to add a curated two-wine flight for $27.
The pacing is intentional, allowing diners to enjoy a complete experience without watching the clock.
We began with Arancini ai Porcini e Tartufo, Carnaroli rice enveloping porcini and mozzarella, finished with a rich black truffle passata. The exterior crackled delicately before yielding to a creamy center.
Pillowy focaccia, fermented for 36 hours, arrived alongside a vibrant eggplant caponata studded with olives and tomatoes, in extra-virgin olive oil. Alici marinate, marinated anchovies with basil and tomato, added briny brightness that was perfect on the warm focaccia.
Frank and I paired these starters with a 2022 Mongrana Super Tuscan from Querciabella, Italy, a Sangiovese-driven blend that balanced red fruit and structure against the earthiness of the truffle and porcini. Guests could also begin with botanical-forward cocktails, draft beers, mocktails, or selections from a well-curated list of Italian and California whites and reds.
Polpette alla Griglia followed, beef and veal meatballs kissed by citrus leaves and served with tomato ammoglio rooted in Sicilian tradition. The citrus lifted the richness without overpowering it. Carpaccio di Tonno showcased thick-cut slices of local bigeye tuna, dressed with tangerine olive oil, arugula, capers, and Fresno chili, where heat and zest framed the fish’s purity.
From there, the kitchen’s technical precision became even more apparent. House-made ricotta and spinach ravioli, finished simply in salted butter and sage, delivered clean, focused flavor. Pesce del Giorno, swordfish on this evening, arrived perfectly cooked, flaky and moist, accented with roasted tomatoes, herbs, arugula, radicchio, and a grilled lemon wedge that brightened each bite.
The gnocchi with truffled pork sausage sugo, garnished with pecorino, pesto, and basil, may have been the evening’s standout. Each dumpling was tender yet firm, allowing the sugo to cling generously. Alongside it, Pollo alla Griglia, half Mary’s chicken with fennel pollen, chicory, blistered grapes, and roasted squash, offered depth and balance.
Dolci concluded the evening with Cioccolato, Cioccolato, Cioccolato, custard, mousse, and gelato presented as a triple-chocolate crescendo, and a dark chocolate stracciatella gelato with pistachio crumble. A cappuccino sealed the experience.
Shortly after we were seated, our exceptional server Ian Driscoll set the tone with polished, attentive service. Early in the evening, Frank leaned over and simply said, “This is world-class.” It was easy to agree. Dora delivers Sicilian soul, technical precision, and coastal elegance, an award-winning and well-earned addition to La Jolla’s dining scene. Get more information at doralajolla.com.
Wine Bytes
Escape to sunny San Diego this spring and experience coastal luxury at the Bahia Resort Hotel, Catamaran Resort Hotel and Spa, and The Lodge at Torrey Pines. From Polynesian-inspired activities and family-friendly beachside movies to festive Easter brunches, Italian Date Nights, spa indulgences, and outdoor adventures, these iconic waterfront retreats offer the perfect blend of relaxation, celebration, and springtime fun for all ages.
Karl Strauss Brewing Company Carlsbad has started a secret menu for its Club Karl members – an $8 bite designed to share and pair with Karl Strauss beers. Club Karl is free to join, so anyone can access the secret appetizer, which won’t be listed on the menu. Guests must ask their server for the dish, which rotates every few weeks. New registrants also get one free appetizer on their next brewpub visit. The secret menu offer is also available at Karl Strauss’ brewpubs in Anaheim and Costa Mesa.
The Butcher Shop San Diego is hosting an Orin Swift Wine Dinner on Thu 3/19@6:00PM with a five-course dinner curated by Executive Chef Brian Gist. The main course features Coffee-Chili Rubbed Short Rib with roasted garlic potato puree paired with “8 Years in the Desert” Zinfandel blend. Price is $130 per person, inclusive of tax/tip. RSVP at butchershopsandiego.com.
Vittorio’s Italian Trattoria in Carmel Valley is hosting a Portuguese Wine Dinner on March 26 at 6 p.m. Guests will enjoy a 3-course dinner and dessert by Exec Chef Angelo Gijo. The main course features braised veal shoulder with garlic mashed potatoes paired with Quinto do Vale Meao, Douro, Red Blend. Cost is $75 per person + tax/tip. RSVP at 858-538-5884.
Rico Cassoni is the executive producer of Taste of Wine and Food. He and founder and adviser Frank Mangio, a Wine Spectator-certified wine connoisseur, are among the web’s leading wine reviewers. Read their columns at tasteofwineandfood.com or contact them at [email protected].
