Recently opened in La Costa, Nómada marks an exciting new chapter for the San Diego-based Grand Restaurant Group (GRG). The concept is led by newly appointed chef partner Alex Carballo, who is guiding the culinary direction across the group’s portfolio.
Shortly after my wife, Mary, and I were seated, Chef Alex greeted us at our table, setting the tone for a dining experience rooted equally in hospitality and culinary intent.
During our conversation, Chef Alex shared his philosophy, “We must have both great food and service.” His approach is guided by four pillars: branding, experience, connection, and a comfortable, approachable environment.
Raised between San Diego and Sinaloa, Mexico, he drew early culinary inspiration from cooking alongside his abuela during holiday and summer visits, including trips to local markets. That foundation, paired with his evolution as a chef and a Slow Food advocate, shapes a menu grounded in tradition while embracing refinement.
That philosophy revealed itself as our experience unfolded. We began with house tortilla chips dusted in a house-made tajín crafted from three hydrated chiles, served with four distinct salsas.
The (table) salsa tatemada, featuring tomatoes and peppers roasted in the wood-burning oven at 750 degrees with mesquite, oak and almond wood varietals, offered a balanced and approachable starting point. The remaining salsas built progressively in heat and unique flavors. A simple guacamole of avocado, lime, salt and cilantro elevated the experience with simplicity and freshness.
At Chef Alex’s recommendation, the rockfish ceviche, layered with tomato, cucumber, onion, cilantro and avocado on a crisp tostada, showcased the kitchen’s ability to let the ingredients take center stage. A Cadillac Margarita, made with fresh house juices rather than syrups, paired seamlessly.
The meal gained momentum with a duck mole taco trio featuring duck confit, mole negro, pickled onion, chicharrón, smoked cotija and cilantro. It was a standout not only for its depth of flavor but also for its accessibility, reflecting a menu that delivers notable value for its quality.
Entrées continued to highlight both technique and tradition. The chicken mole, anchored by a mole negro developed over 48 hours, delivered deep, smoky complexity with a smooth, velvety finish, built from cacao and chiles rather than traditional chocolate. It arrived with rice and thick, house-made tortillas crafted from a blend of blue, red, and yellow corn, adding both authenticity and texture.
Equally impressive, the Cochinita Pibil plate featured fork-tender and richly seasoned Yucatán-style braised pork cooked in banana leaves, accompanied by grilled chayote squash and pickled carrots and onions.
House-made desserts provided a fitting conclusion. Batter-fried churros with a crunchy exterior and pillowy interior offered a playful contrast. They were served with a warm Mexican chocolate sauce. A classic caramel custard flan, finished with sugar glass, berries and a liquid caramel sauce, delivered silky, indulgent sweetness.
Photo by Rico Cassoni
Behind the bar, beverage director Sean Ward brings a fresh, ingredient-driven approach, emphasizing house-made mixers, agave-forward cocktails, and a well-rounded selection of beer and wine. His collaboration with GRG leadership, including COO Gianina Pickens and Chef Alex, signals a thoughtful, cohesive direction for the group’s future.
With attentive service from Evan Taylor and a clear culinary vision, Nómada sets a strong tone for what lies ahead. Open daily with extended weekend hours, it delivers a refined yet approachable dining experience that reflects both tradition and forward momentum in North County’s evolving food scene.
Nómada offers lunch, dinner, weekend brunch, late-night menus and programming (DJs, live music, and weekly salsa and Latin dance nights). More info at nomadadining.com.
Pastaria Vivi comes to Encinitas
Pastaria Vivi is now open as a chef-driven fresh pasta destination that blends multiple concepts into one: an Italian food market, a California-focused retail shop highlighting local makers, a daily handmade pasta-and-sauce counter, and a casual à la carte dining experience.
Led by co-founders Chef Brandon Jennings and William Treff alongside Chef Harrison Axelrod, the team brings experience from Michelin-recognized kitchens and some of San Diego’s most respected dining rooms.
At a recent media preview, Frank and I were impressed by the 24-month-aged prosciutto, pillowy house-made focaccia and ultra-creamy burrata. House-made pappardelle, perfectly cooked and paired with a rich bolognese, highlighted the kitchen’s focus on quality and execution.
Guests can enjoy the concept in multiple ways, from take-and-bake options like lasagna and ready-to-serve selections for home, to dining on-site at a family-style table, Italian-style counter seating, or outdoor tables.
Pricing is accessible and fair, and in a refreshing twist, the team does not accept gratuity, instead encouraging guests to share their experience through online reviews.
Pastaria Vivi is a welcome addition to Encinitas and one we look forward to revisiting for a full menu experience. Get more info at pastariavivi.com.
Wine Bytes
• Wine Spectator Grand Tour makes its first-ever San Diego appearance April 25 at the Gaylord Pacific Convention Center in Chula Vista, featuring more than 200 worldwide wines rated 90+ points by Wine Spectator. Guests can meet winemakers and enjoy curated food pairings. Admission runs 7 to 9:30 p.m., with a 6 p.m. VIP hour. Tickets are $250 general admission, $395 VIP, with a special $100 rate for guests 30 and under. Each attendee receives a Riedel tasting glass and event guide. Info at grandtour.winespectator.com.
• 54 Hours with James Beard Award-Winning Chefs returns April 30 through May 3 at Rancho Bernardo Inn, bringing together an impressive lineup of culinary talent, including James Beard winners Alex Seidel, Matt Vawter and Lord Maynard, along with Casey Thompson, Jonathan Kinsella and JC Resorts Executive Chef Ron Fougeray. The immersive weekend features chef dinners, cooking demos, workshops, wine and whiskey tastings, and the signature Grand Chefs Tour Dinner, with Platinum guests attending the Opening Night Evening of Excellence. Tickets range from $288 to $720. More info at OpenTable.com.
• The Butcher Shop San Diego is hosting a Niner Wine Estates Dinner, with owner Andy Niner, on Thursday, April 23, at 6 p.m. The five-course dinner is curated by Executive Chef Brian Gist. The main course features Braised Beef Cheeks with mushroom orzo paired with Niner’s Flagship Fog Catcher Bordeaux ($150 retail). Price is $130 per person inclusive of tax/tip. RSVP at butchershopsandiego.com.
Rico Cassoni is executive producer for Taste of Wine and Food. He and founder/advisor Frank Mangio, a renowned wine connoisseur certified by Wine Spectator, are two of the leading reviewers on the web. Reach them at [email protected].
