In a town rich with culinary talent, Lucien immediately raises the bar. On July 16, I had the privilege of a sneak preview before the restaurant’s debut, and what unfolded was more than a meal — it was a provocative journey through California’s seasons, flavors, and spirit.
Tucked into the third floor of La Plaza La Jolla (7863 Girard Avenue), Lucien welcomes 30 guests at a time, creating an intimate, high-touch experience. Chef/owner Elijah Arizmendi, alongside business partners Brian Hung and Melissa Lang, has drawn on Michelin-starred pedigree honed at Spago, Per Se, and Restaurant Daniel to craft what the team calls “a singular experience” celebrating California’s land and sea.
The restaurant, named for Chef Elijah’s son, features interiors by Tecture Design Studio that feel grounded and transportive — with earthy tones, La Jolla sea cave-inspired alcoves, and a modern New York energy, punctuated by an ever-changing soundtrack.
Guests are greeted outdoors by the service team next to Lucien’s Calamansi tree, where cool towels and welcoming smiles set the tone. My wife Mary and I arrived early, giving me a chance to chat with Wine & Beverage Manager James Meringer.
James’s beverage program is as ambitious as the menu — championing California spirits and wines with craft producers like Brucato (farmers-market-born amari), St. George (trailblazing gin and vodka), and Alpine (whose chaparral spirit even bridges bar and kitchen as a palate cleanser). On the wine side, he favors farmers and winemakers like Cobb Family, whose exquisite Pinot Noir reaches restaurants directly, bypassing distributors.
Lucien’s 10-plus-course tasting menu ($260) begins in the airy courtyard, where we enjoyed a crisped nori shell with bluefin tuna, calamansi vinegar, and shiso, paired with a refreshing nonalcoholic calamansi cocktail. That was followed by California Kinki on a potato mille-feuille and a pork rillette tartlet dusted with fig leaf powder.
Inside, the mood shifted to what Lucien calls The Journey. Course after course showcased bold creativity and technique: an egg custard in its shell crowned with N25 Oscietra caviar; Bluefin akami and otoro accented by tomato emulsion, strawberry, and basil; a California shellfish composition of clam, uni, percebes, and oyster ice cream; and an unforgettable five-day aged sablefish cooked in the wood hearth, finished tableside with a luscious bone sauce infused with caviar.
I paired these courses with the 2023 Presqu’ile Rosé, whose strawberry-and-cream notes harmonized beautifully with the strawberry-inflected tuna dish, and a 2021 Pedrasassi Syrah, complementing dishes like Monterey squid-stuffed Japanese eggplant and Wagyu ribeye with chanterelle and morel mushrooms.
Pastry Chef Bella Alicea added delightful touches throughout, from ancient grain sourdough stamped with Lucien’s logo to a playful “digestif” of cantaloupe and California spirits, and desserts like poached peach in Nigori sake and grilled banana peel ice cream. The evening concluded with a soothing botanical tea served with local Mikolich honey, followed by a trio of delicate mignardises: tarragon pistachio choux, basil-mango tartlet, and a dark milk chocolate lavender bonbon.
What makes Lucien stand out isn’t just the technique or even the premium ingredients — though both are superb. It’s how they’re brought together in a dining experience that feels elevated yet approachable, intimate yet dynamic, with a synchronized service team that moves like a well-choreographed dance.
Chef Elijah and team have delivered what they promised: a Michelin-level tasting menu that wows with its flavor, finesse, and cool, contemporary vibe — a provocative journey worth taking. Get more info at luciensd.com.
— Story by Rico Cassoni
Wine Bytes
- The Del Mar Wine + Food Festival is back Sept. 10-14, celebrating San Diego’s culinary scene with top chefs, athletes, and winemakers. Highlights include San Diego FC’s opening night party, Alex Morgan’s dinner honoring women at Fairmont Grand Del Mar, Drew Brees’s pickleball tournament benefiting Feeding San Diego, and CluckFest, a fried chicken afterparty with Michael Voltaggio and San Diego Wave FC. The two-day Grand Tasting at Surf Sports Park features over 100 chefs and 150 wine, spirits, and beverage producers, plus themed zones like Taco Alley, Big Queer Food Fest, and plant-based and surf-inspired spaces. Celebrity chefs Jet Tila, Marc Murphy, Javier Plascencia, Claudia Sandoval, and Brian Malarkey join Baja and San Diego stars for a week that’s raised $75,000 for Feeding San Diego and community partners. Details at delmar.wine.
- On Thursday, August 7, Puffer Malarkey Collective and the San Diego Fishermen’s Working Group present the return of Dockside Night Market, a one-night-only culinary festival celebrating San Diego’s local fishing community with seafood-driven dishes from some of the city’s top chefs. Held on the working waterfront at Tuna Harbor Dockside Market, the evening invites guests to wander the pier enjoying chef-curated bites, craft cocktails, and live music just steps from where the day’s catch was landed. Each $100 ticket includes a tasting from every participating chef, with 100% of the proceeds benefiting the San Diego Fishermen’s Working Group, a nonprofit organization that supports local fishermen, preserves coastal traditions, and ensures sustainable seafood for future generations. Guests must be 21+ to attend. Tickets at docksidenightmarket.eventbrite.com.
Rico Cassoni is Exec Producer for Taste of Wine and Food. He and Founder/Advisor Frank Mangio, a renowned wine connoisseur certified by Wine Spectator, are two of the leading reviewers on the web. View their columns at tasteofwineandfood.com. Go to recent columns. Reach them at [email protected].
