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Pastaria Vivi’s firm but tender meatball made from house-ground meat mixed with panko and mozzarella cheese with pomodoro sauce. Photo by Rico Cassoni
Pastaria Vivi’s firm but tender meatball made from house-ground meat mixed with panko and mozzarella cheese with pomodoro sauce. Photo by Rico Cassoni
Food & WineTaste of Wine

Pastaria Vivi’s secret ingredient is its culture

When Frank and I attended Pastaria Vivi’s grand opening media event in Encinitas a few months ago, we left knowing there was much more to the Pastaria Vivi story than could be told in that brief introduction.

We recently returned for a deeper look at the rapidly growing concept, guided by co-owner Chef Brandon Jennings and Chef de Cuisine Harrison Axelrod, who had been busy leading the kitchen during our first visit.

Pastaria Vivi blends a specialty Italian retail shop, fresh pasta counter, casual dining destination and the area’s first pasta subscription service under one roof.

Jennings, Axelrod, and co-founder William Treff bring experience from Michelin-recognized kitchens and some of San Diego’s most respected dining rooms. Their combined expertise in pasta, bread, operations and culinary leadership is evident throughout the restaurant.

While the food was exceptional, what struck me most during our visit was the atmosphere. There is vibrant energy inside Pastaria Vivi. The kitchen hums with purpose, employees genuinely appear to enjoy working together and hospitality feels authentic rather than scripted. About an hour into our visit, I asked Jennings what makes Pastaria Vivi different.

Pastaria Vivi Chef de Cuisine Harrison Axelrod uses the pasta extruder to create campanelle pasta at the restaurant on N. El Camino Real in Encinitas.  Photo by Rico Cassoni
Pastaria Vivi Chef de Cuisine Harrison Axelrod uses the pasta extruder to create campanelle pasta at the restaurant on N. El Camino Real in Encinitas. Photo by Rico Cassoni
Layered spinach lasagna with ricotta, mozzarella and aged 24-month Parmigiano Reggiano cheeses in a pomodoro sauce.  Guests can opt for Bolognese sauce as well.  Photo by Rico Cassoni
Layered spinach lasagna with ricotta, mozzarella and aged 24-month Parmigiano Reggiano cheeses in a pomodoro sauce. Guests can opt for Bolognese sauce as well. Photo by Rico Cassoni
The Pastaria Vivi display case features fresh pasta, meats and cheeses that customers can purchase to enjoy at home. Photo by Rico Cassoni
The Pastaria Vivi display case features fresh pasta, meats and cheeses that customers can purchase to enjoy at home. Photo by Rico Cassoni

“We have ethos,” he said. “We are a family that takes care of each other. Hospitality, respect and teamwork are our pillars.”

That philosophy extends beyond words. Employees receive a livable wage and benefits. Rather than encouraging gratuities, the restaurant simply asks guests to leave a positive review if they enjoyed their experience. The approach appears to be working. Jennings shared that the business has exceeded even his most optimistic projections, performing at more than double his original expectations since opening.

The food certainly supports their success!

During our grand opening visit, we were impressed by the house-made focaccia, burrata and pappardelle with rich bolognese. This time we explored additional menu favorites, including their meatball, ravioli and lasagna, while revisiting their exceptional focaccia.

Part of Jennings’ culinary foundation was formed during his years working in the United Kingdom. Before returning to the United States, Jennings used an unexpected two-month gap in housing to travel throughout Tuscany, spending time with Italian nonnas in Chianti, Lucca and Florence, learning techniques and traditions that continue to influence Pastaria Vivi today.

Those lessons were evident in the restaurant’s outstanding meatballs. Freshly ground daily in-house, the meat mixture incorporates approximately 20% cured meats that change daily, including items such as prosciutto, mortadella and salami. Combined with house-made mozzarella and house-made seasoned panko breadcrumbs, then gently mixed by hand, the result is a meatball that is both firm and remarkably tender.

Spinach ravioli filled with ricotta cheese and Sicilian oregano served in a butter sauce and topped with panko served in a Rampini ceramic dish.  Photo by Rico Cassoni
Spinach ravioli filled with ricotta cheese and Sicilian oregano served in a butter sauce and topped with panko served in a Rampini ceramic dish. Photo by Rico Cassoni
Queenstown owners Matt Baker, left, and PJ Lamont present a grass-fed organic slider at their new Del Mar location.  Photo by Rico Cassoni
Queenstown owners Matt Baker, left, and PJ Lamont present a grass-fed organic slider at their new Del Mar location. Photo by Rico Cassoni

The ravioli featured house-made pasta crafted from durum wheat imported from Italy and filled with ricotta, herbs and spices in a butter sauce. Equally impressive was the layered lasagna featuring house-made spinach pasta, fresh local tomatoes, mozzarella and 24-month Parmigiano Reggiano. Guests can also purchase lasagna by the pan as a take-and-bake offering for home entertaining.

Dessert brought another lesson learned from the Tuscan nonnas. Pastaria Vivi’s newly introduced house-made tiramisu achieves its light, airy texture through a meringue folded into mascarpone cheese, creating a memorable finish. Guests can also enjoy cannolis and small-batch gelato from Chino Farms.

Whether dining on the patio, enjoying a meal at the stadium-style pasta bar, picking up take-and-bake favorites or shopping for curated products from California and Italy, Pastaria Vivi delivers an experience that feels both authentic and innovative.

The handmade pasta may draw guests through the door, but it is the culture and ethos behind the concept that will keep them coming back. Get more information at pastariavivi.com.

Queenstown expands to Del Mar

It was great meeting Queenstown owners PJ Lamont and Matt Baker at their Del Mar friends, family and media preview event ahead of the restaurant’s opening. Thank you to H2 Public Relations for the invitation.

Guests sampled grass-fed organic sliders, teriyaki chicken skewers with pineapple, beet salad with bleu cheese, and hummus with pita and fresh vegetables. Lamont shared that the beef is ground daily to preserve freshness.

Handcrafted cocktails, including the Kelvin Heights with habanero tequila, passion fruit, agave and lime, complemented the menu. Queenstown officially opened May 21, bringing New Zealand-inspired cuisine to Del Mar. I look forward to a future return visit. See more at queenstowndelmar.com.

— Rico Cassoni

 

Wine Bytes

• The Lodge at Torrey Pines will host its 23rd annual Celebrate the Craft on Oct. 18. The signature culinary festival brings together chefs, farmers, ranchers, vintners, brewers and artisans for an afternoon celebrating California’s culinary bounty. Early Bird tickets, discounted $50, are available through June 30. RSVP at celebratethecraft.com.

La Jolla Cove’s Piazza 1909 Summer Dinner Under the Stars series continues July 16 with a celebration of Sicilian and Sardinian cuisine, followed by a Ferragosto dinner Aug. 15. The $69 all-inclusive dinners feature handmade Italian specialties, dessert, live music and a welcome prosecco toast. Optional wine pairings are available. RSVP at opentable.com.

Rico Cassoni is executive producer for Taste of Wine and Food. He and founder/advisor Frank Mangio, a renowned wine connoisseur certified by Wine Spectator, are two of the leading reviewers on the web. Reach them at [email protected].            

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