When the Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego (MCASD) reemerged from its extensive COVID-era transformation in 2022, it wasn’t just the art scene that was revitalized. The culinary world was as well.
After a stunning four-year, $105-million renovation led by renowned Selldorf Architects, the La Jolla flagship reopened with four times the gallery space, new seaside terraces and 104,400 square feet of reimagined artistic splendor. Integral to this renewal was the debut of The Kitchen at MCASD, a dining experience as thoughtfully curated as the exhibits themselves.
The museum’s rebirth was fueled by Joan and Irwin Jacobs, whose $20 million gift was built on their decades-long commitment to MCASD. Their passion for contemporary art and community resonates throughout the galleries, and now extends to the culinary world with The Kitchen.
At the heart of The Kitchen is restaurateur Tracy Borkum, the visionary behind Urban Kitchen Group (UKG). Her CUCINA restaurants blend rustic Italian charm with Southern California freshness, creating whimsical spaces filled with open kitchens, alfresco patios and vibrant graffiti-inspired art. It’s a philosophy that fits right in with MCASD’s fresh new look, where art, food and atmosphere mingle effortlessly.
Chef/partner Tim “TK” Kolanko leads the culinary side as UKG’s culinary director. With more than 30 years of experience, including a decade at La Jolla’s A.R. Valentien, TK brings a style rooted in seasonality, sustainability and collaboration. Since joining forces with Borkum in 2019, he’s helped shape a collective that’s deeply connected to local farmers and artisans.
General Manager Megan Brown, a seasoned hospitality professional and advanced sommelier (WSET 3 certified), oversees operations. Her journey from Key West to Maine to Hawaii, and eventually to San Diego, has given her a rich hospitality background. Megan said The Kitchen felt like a natural fit for her, blending her love of art, wine and community in a beautiful seaside setting.
On a recent visit, my wife, Mary, and I had the pleasure of experiencing an event that combined both flavor and artistry. We began with a trio of dishes that set the tone for the night, starting with Hamachi crudo featuring avocado, tomatillo, red Fresno chili, and charred onion.
Next, we had a beet and orange salad accented with chèvre, dukkah and mint. We finished the trio with a savory chickpea panissa, which is made by pouring a chickpea batter into rectangles, chilling overnight and frying in olive oil until golden brown. The panissa was served with dates, smoked almonds, celery leaf and lemon aioli. A crisp Laird Sauvignon Blanc was the perfect pairing for the trio, its minerality and bright acidity lifting each dish.
For dinner, Mary chose the chicken schnitzel — crispy, juicy, and topped with chicory, preserved lemon aioli, white anchovy and Parmesan. It was almost like a deconstructed Caesar salad, with bold flavors and plenty of crunch. I went for the lamb shank, slow-braised to tender perfection, served with pistachio butter, peas, turnips and chard. Hearty, comforting and full of springtime brightness, it was my favorite dish of the night.
We paired our mains with a French Arbalest Bordeaux Blend, which matched the meal’s richness nicely. Megan also introduced us to a new addition to the wine list: the 2019 Oliveras Rosa Grenache from Jumilla, Spain —a bright, strawberry-forward wine that provided a refreshing contrast to the deeper Bordeaux notes.
When it came to dessert, we were torn between the Basque cheesecake and the chocolate budino with salted caramel, vanilla whip, chocolate crumb and cocoa. Our server, Shela Arias — knowledgeable, friendly, and spot-on with her recommendations — made the choice easy by bringing out both. I paired a final sip of the Rosa Grenache with the cheesecake for a sweet, satisfying end to the evening.
Of course, the setting itself deserves its own round of applause. Overlooking the Pacific Ocean, The Kitchen offers a coastal Mediterranean vibe, framed by Art Deco dinnerware and museum-quality surroundings. It’s an experience as much about the view and the vibe as it is about the food.
The Kitchen serves breakfast and lunch Wednesday through Sunday, and dinner Thursday through Sunday from 5 to 8 p.m. On the first Thursday of each month, they feature a special five-course dinner showcasing seasonal ingredients and luxury proteins — April focused on peas, and May will spotlight artichokes.
Urban Kitchen Group has recently welcomed two new culinary stars. Chef Wesley Johnson, known for his work under James Beard Award-winning chefs in Philadelphia and Portland, brings a vegetable-forward, sustainability-first approach to the group. Executive Pastry Chef Sofia Garcia, who honed her craft from Tijuana to Rancho Bernardo Inn, now leads UKG’s pastry programs with a blend of artisan technique and creative heart.
From contemporary art to coastal cuisine, The Kitchen at MCASD proves that great masterpieces aren’t limited to gallery walls — they’re plated, poured and savored. More information at urbankitchengroup.com/thekitchenatmcasd.
— Story by Rico Cassoni
Wine Bytes
• The Lodge at Torrey Pines launches its culinary season this June with Artisan Table Wine Dinners and Playing with Fire, San Diego’s hottest summer patio party with guest chefs and craft brews. Details at bit.ly/4cObnVH.
Also, A.R. Valentien reopens May 9 with a new tasting menu and welcomes sommelier Schuyler Munroe to its award-winning wine program.
• MSG Hospitality launches the first-ever AANHPI Eats Week May 10–18, celebrating Asian American, Native Hawaiian and Pacific Islander Heritage Month. Dine your way through special AANHPI-inspired prix-fixe menus and dishes at top San Diego spots like Glass Box, Kalei’s Kitchenette, Kingfisher and more Details at bit.ly/msg-aanhpi.
Rico Cassoni is executive producer for Taste of Wine and Food. He and founder/advisor Frank Mangio, a renowned wine connoisseur certified by Wine Spectator, are two of the leading reviewers on the web. Reach them at [email protected].
