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Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars winemaker, Marcus Notaro (left), Sal Ercolano, owner of The Butcher Shop, and Silvio Di Silvio, Antinori director of luxury accounts and education. Photo by Rico Cassoni
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars winemaker, Marcus Notaro (left), Sal Ercolano, owner of The Butcher Shop, and Silvio Di Silvio, Antinori director of luxury accounts and education. Photo by Rico Cassoni
ColumnsFood & WineTaste of Wine

Stag’s Leap winemaker dinner shines at The Butcher Shop

Last June, I had the pleasure of touring Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars in Napa Valley with Patrick Reilly, the winery’s trade coordinator, and winemaker Marcus Notaro, courtesy of Silvio Di Silvio, Antinori director of luxury accounts and education, who arranged the visit.

I tasted through an all-star lineup that included Artemis, FAY, S.L.V., and CASK 23.

Fast-forward to March 2024, and I was thrilled to reconnect with Marcus and see Silvio at The Butcher Shop’s sold-out, 86-person Stag’s Leap Winemaker Dinner, hosted by Sal Ercolano. During comments, Silvio shared his gratitude to Ercolano for serving Antinori wines in his restaurants for over 20 years. It was exciting to pair executive chef Brian Gist’s five-course menu with Stag’s Leap’s prestigious wines.

Our evening began with a vibrant shrimp and scallop ceviche layered with pickled red onions, served atop a blue corn tostada garnished with avocado crema. The dish had a refreshing brightness and paired well with the 2022 Stag’s Leap Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc Aveta.

Grilled New York Strip Steak served with horseradish whipped potatoes, grilled asparagus, and a red wine reduction paired with 2021 FAY Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. Photo by Rico Cassoni
Grilled Prime New York Strip with rosemary demi-glace, seared polenta, roasted cipollini onion, and grilled asparagus paired with 2021 FAY Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. Photo by Rico Cassoni

On the nose, I detected citrus and floral notes, and on the palate, guava and pineapple provided an energetic match for the seafood. The crisp, tropical profile cleansed the palate while enhancing the sweetness and spice of the ceviche.

Next came the bib lettuce wedge salad, a refreshing and artful plate of crisp bib lettuce, roasted cauliflower and crumbled feta cheese, all tied together with a lemon basil dressing. This course was beautifully matched with the 2023 Stag’s Leap Napa Valley Chardonnay Karia.

The nose opened with notes of lemon, lime and cantaloupe, while the palate offered stone fruit, juicy apple and melon flavors with a soft, creamy finish accented by a hint of vanilla. The lightly oaked chardonnay was bright and crisp.

The third course was a standout braised beef short rib, plated with creamy parsnip purée, roasted Brussels sprouts and crispy fried onions. The fork-tender short rib was rich and flavorful, balanced by the parsnip’s sweetness and the Brussels sprouts’ earthiness.

The 2021 Stag’s Leap Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Artemis provided layered dark fruit notes, baking spice and firm structure that stood up to the hearty dish. With Antinori’s purchase of Stag’s Leap in 2023, Artemis 2023 and forward vintages will be 100% cabernet sauvignon estate fruit sourced from Antinori Napa Valley.

Dessert Trio with Passion Fruit Crème Brûlée, profiteroles, and a piece of almond brittle served with rare Ptolemy Late Harvest wine. Photo by Rico Cassoni
Dessert Trio with Passion Fruit Crème Brûlée, profiteroles, and a piece of almond brittle served with rare Ptolemy Late Harvest wine. Photo by Rico Cassoni

For the main course, Chef Gist served hardwood-grilled prime New York strip with rosemary demi-glace, seared polenta, roasted cipollini onions and grilled asparagus. The polenta was golden on the outside and creamy on the inside, offering an excellent contrast in textures.

The steak itself was grilled perfectly to medium-rare. The rosemary demi added an aromatic richness that married well with the 2020 Stag’s Leap Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon FAY. One of Napa Valley’s most historic cabernet sauvignon sites, the FAY Vineyard was first planted in 1961 by Nathan Fay.

The 2021 vintage, shaped by a long, cool growing season with no major heat spikes, produced a wine with bright red fruit, fine-grained tannins and a silky, rich finish. Aging for 21 months in 80% new French oak brought finesse and polish to the wine, allowing it to complement and elevate the dish.

Marcus commented, “The 2021 FAY will have a long life and can be stored for 10 years or more.”

The meal concluded with a trio of desserts. Passion fruit crème brûlée delivered a tangy citrus brightness beneath a caramelized sugar crust. Two profiteroles filled with vanilla bean custard and dipped in dark chocolate brought a creamy indulgence, while a piece of almond brittle added crunch.

Enjoying this course alongside Ptolemy, a rare late-harvest sauvignon blanc, was especially memorable. Ptolemy is picked two months after Aveta at 40 brix versus 22, allowing a healthy mold to draw out the moisture. When pressed, only a trickle of juice is extracted.

Braised Beef Short Rib, plated with creamy parsnip purée, roasted Brussels sprouts, and crispy fried onions paired with 2021 Stag’s Leap Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Artemis. Photo by Rico Cassoni
Braised Beef Short Rib, plated with creamy parsnip purée, roasted Brussels sprouts, and crispy fried onions paired with 2021 Stag’s Leap Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Artemis. Photo by Rico Cassoni

One barrel — just 24 cases — is made annually, making the Ptolemy pour a special treat for guests, as it is unavailable for retail.

Exciting wine dinners continue in Ercolano’s lineup. Del Mar’s West End Bar & Kitchen is hosting a Duckhorn Vineyards five-course winemaker dinner on Thursday, April 24, at 6 p.m. The main course, crafted by Gist, is grilled New York strip steak with horseradish whipped potatoes and roasted asparagus, paired with Paraduxx Red Blend. The cost is $130 per person and includes tax and tip. RSVP at 858-259-5878.

A big thank-you to The Butcher Shop culinary and service teams for their excellent execution and warm hospitality throughout the evening. For more information on Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, visit stagsleapwinecellars.com.

Story by Rico Cassoni

Wine Bytes

Vittorio’s Italian Trattoria in Carmel Valley is hosting a Fess Parker Wine Dinner on Wednesday, April 24, at 6:30 p.m. Guests will enjoy a four-course dinner featuring standout pairings like a panko-crusted crab cake with Ashley’s Chardonnay 2023, duck confit ravioli with Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir 2021 and red wine-braised short ribs paired with The Big Easy Red 2021. Dessert will be the chef’s surprise. Cost is $75 per person, plus tax and tip. RSVP at 858-538-5884.

Rico Cassoni is executive producer for Taste of Wine and Food. Founder/advisor Frank Mangio, a renowned wine connoisseur certified by Wine Spectator, and Casssoni are two of the leading reviewers on the web. View their columns at tasteofwineandfood.com. Go to recent columns. Reach them at [email protected].