In 1970, Warren and Barbara Winiarski purchased a 35-acre prune orchard in Napa Valley and replanted it with cabernet sauvignon and merlot in predominantly volcanic soil. The vineyard was named S.L.V. for Stag’s Leap Vineyards. In 1973, they built a winery near the vineyard and founded Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars.
In 1976, Warren won the Judgment of Paris blind tasting for his 1973 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon. Together with Chateau Montelena winning with its 1973 Chardonnay, these achievements brought worldwide recognition to California, Napa Valley, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars and Chateau Montelena.
In 1986, the Winiarskis purchased 70 acres of a vineyard that shares a creek with S.L.V. from Nathan and Mary Jane Fay. The vineyard was named Fay in honor of the Fays having created the Stag’s Leap Wine District with their initial plantings in 1961.
My wife, Mary, and I were warmly greeted by Patrick Reilly, trade coordinator, with a glass of refreshing 2022 Aveta Sauvignon Blanc with splashes of semillon (7%) and sauvignon blanc musque (4%). We enjoyed this on our walk to the on-site caves boasting 1.1 miles of pathways storing 8,000 barrels of wine. About 50% is dedicated to Artemis, Stag’s Leap most popular label. The other 50% is devoted to Fay, S.L.V. and Cask 23 labels.
At the cave entrance, we had glasses of 2022 Karia Chardonnay with fruit from four Napa Valley vineyards and fermented in stainless steel, oak and concrete vessels. The diversity of vineyards and fermentation created layers of delicious complexity. Reilly took us to the epicenter of the cave with three sets of artifacts created by the Winiarskis. The first was a swinging pendulum to represent the passage of time. The second was fitted stone floor tiles to represent the map of Napa Valley vineyards.
The third was bright spots in the ceiling and light sconces to represent the shooting star streaking through a starlight sky on the night that the Winiarskis decided to purchase the vineyard.
Following our extensive cave tour, Reilly and Marcus Notaro, director of winemaking, took us through a tasting of Stag’s Leap red wine stars. The first was 2021 Artemis Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from 16 vineyards. Both 2021 and 2022 vintages add splashes of 4% cab franc and 1% merlot.
With Antinori’s purchase of Stag’s Leap in 2023, Artemis 2023 and forward vintages will be 100% cabernet sauvignon estate fruit sourced from Antinori Napa Valley. Notaro said, “I am excited to work with Antinori Napa Valley Atlas Peak Mountain fruit for Artemis.”
Next up was 2021 Fay, 100% estate fruit sourced from the Fay vineyard. The alluvial soil holds more water and nutrients resulting in thinner skins that are softer and more aromatic. This is in comparison to the 2021 S.L.V., 100% estate fruit sourced from the S.L.V. vineyard. The volcanic soil forces the roots to struggle for water and nutrients creating smaller, more concentrated berries resulting in more structure, flavor and bolder tannins. Both Fay and S.L.V. are aged for two years in oak and one year in the bottle.
Next, Reilly and Notaro spoiled us with Cask 23. In 1974, the winery enlisted the assistance of celebrated winemaker Andre Tchelistcheff. As Tchelistcheff was tasting through lots of S.L.V., one stood out. It was aged in a large cask (Cask 23) and bottled separately as a reserve wine.
Today, 1% of the best lots of Fay and S.L.V. fruit are used to create the Cask 23 label, Stag’s Leap finest wine with extraordinary depth and richness. I will attest that this was phenomenal wine with superb structure, complexity, depth, and ultra smooth tannins.
On a sad note, I learned that Warren Winiarski passed away on June 7, the day after our visit. May this Napa Valley wine legend be remembered for his worldwide influence and success.
Thank you Patrick and Marcus for a memorable day at your beautiful winery and sharing your over-the-top wines! More info at stagsleapwinecellars.com.
Copper Cane Wine Dinner
Speaking of Napa Valley, I wanted to provide a short summary of the Copper Cane Wine Dinner recently held at Vittorio’s Italian Trattoria. Copper Cane’s Trevor Frerking, regional manager, SoCal & Nevada, and Aspect Fine Wine’s Traci Maloney, account development specialist, narrated the evening.
Copper Cane’s Joe Wagner, winemaker/owner, has winemaking in his blood as the child of Chuck Wagner, renowned winemaker/owner of Caymus. Hats off to Chuck and the Wagner Family Wines team, including Joe’s siblings Charlie and Jenny, for the 50-year anniversary release of 2022 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon.
At the wine dinner, guests enjoyed 2022 Belle Glos Oeil de Perdrix (Eye of Partridge) Pinot Noir Blanc (Rose), 2022 Belle Glos Glasir Holt Chardonnay and 2022 Belle Glos Clark & Telephone Pinot Noir for the amuse-bouche, first course and second course.
The main course, braised short ribs, garlic mashed potatoes and asparagus, was paired with 2018 Quilt Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from six Napa Valley vineyards. Quilt is a great value cabernet sauvignon and was a perfect companion for the short ribs entrée with plum and hints of dark chocolate and molasses on the palate.
Frerking and Maloney surprised guests with two secret wines, 2014 Belle Glos Taylor Lane Pinot Noir and 2018 Quilt “Grace of the Land” Reserve Cab Sauv. The Quilt Reserve was especially tasty and, for a special evening, worth the extra dollars. Get more information at coppercane.com.
— Story by Rico Cassoni
Rico Cassoni is executive producer for Taste of Wine and Food. He and founder/adviser Frank Mangio, a renowned wine connoisseur certified by Wine Spectator, are two of the leading reviewers on the web. Reach them at [email protected].
