When Sal Ercolano stepped to the microphone to kick off the evening, it was immediately clear this was more than just another wine dinner. Not only was the event a sellout, with 75 guests filling The Butcher Shop Steakhouse, it also marked the first wine dinner hosted across all of Ercolano’s restaurants.
Sal added another headline-worthy note, announcing that he and business partner Gil Frank purchased Milton’s Deli at Del Mar’s Flower Hill Promenade, with Gil overseeing day-to-day operations.
While wine dinners are always special, this one carried extra meaning for me. Sharing the evening with pickleball friends Rich and Laurie Alves, Valerie and Jay Bass, and my longtime collaborator Frank made the night feel connected.
Adding to that sense of connection was the mother-and-daughter duo, Bryce and Michelle Corcoran, who were seated at our table and quickly became part of the group. Conversations flowed easily, glasses clinked often, and the communal spirit that defines a truly successful wine dinner was firmly in place.
Guiding us through the evening’s wines was Mike Otto, senior business development manager for Rombauer Vineyards, whose engaging narration provided context for each pour. It had been over a year since Frank and I last attended a Rombauer wine dinner, and reconnecting with the wines in a thoughtfully curated, food-driven setting was a welcome reminder of why the winery maintains such a loyal following.
Founded in 1980 by Koerner and Joan Rombauer, Rombauer Vineyards built its reputation on generous, fruit-driven wines crafted to shine at the table. Long before launching the winery, the Rombauers understood the relationship between food and wine. Koerner’s great-aunt, Irma Rombauer, authored “The Joy of Cooking,” and his German heritage traces back to the Rheingau wine region.
When Rombauer released its first chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon in 1984, the style was already approachable, expressive wines designed to deliver pleasure without pretense.
Executive chef Brian Gist delivered a five-course menu that showcased a clear understanding of how food and wine should support each other.
The evening started with citrus-poached colossal shrimp, preserved lemon aioli, and cucumber-tomato salsa, paired with the 2024 Rombauer Napa/Sonoma Sauvignon Blanc. Grown from estate vineyards in Sonoma and select sites in Napa, the wine opened with lychee, honeydew melon, lime and chamomile. Bright acidity carried lemon and lime through the palate, creating a lively, refreshing pairing. The wine’s citrus-driven profile melded seamlessly with the lemon aioli.
Next came pan-seared sea scallops, sweet corn purée and crispy bacon alongside the 2024 Rombauer Carneros Chardonnay. This is the chardonnay everyone knows, and for good reason. Aromas of yellow peach, guava and Meyer lemon led into a creamy mid-palate layered with vanilla and buttery richness, framed by Rombauer’s signature acidity.
Prepared in brown butter, the scallops were a natural match, while the sweet corn purée echoed the wine’s ripe fruit character. Rich yet balanced, this pairing underscored why Rombauer Chardonnay remains a California benchmark.
The third course featured pan-roasted duck breast, wild mushroom farro, and five-spice dark-cherry gastrique, served with 2023 Rombauer Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir. Sourced from premier vineyard sites including Garys’, Rosella’s and Sierra Mar, the pinot delivered plum and cherry notes with subtle spice.
The cherry-driven palate mirrored the gastrique beautifully, while the wine’s earthiness enhanced the depth of the mushroom farrotto. Silky tannins and bright acidity kept the pairing composed and elegant.
For the main course, prime hanger steak finished with a blackberry and green peppercorn brandy sauce and crispy rosemary–parmesan shoestrings arrived with 2022 Rombauer Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.
Crafted from fruit grown across St. Helena, Calistoga, Stags Leap District and Atlas Peak, the cabernet offered ripe red and black currant flavors with moderate tannins that provided structure without heaviness. The wine paired effortlessly with the sauce, cleansing the palate between bites and allowing the hanger steak to shine.
Dessert closed the evening with a dark chocolate pavlova, garnished with wild berries, espresso whipped cream, and toffee-hazelnut crumble, and paired with the 2023 Rombauer California Zinfandel. Sourced from historic vineyards across Amador, El Dorado, Lake, and Napa counties, the zin’s dark-berry profile harmonized beautifully with the pavlova’s wild berries, delivering a smooth, satisfying finish.
In the end, the Rombauer wine dinner at The Butcher Shop was a reminder of why wine dinners are popular when done right. Great wines, a kitchen cooking with purpose and a room filled with people who genuinely enjoy sharing the table came together seamlessly.
From Sal Ercolano’s opening remarks to Mike Otto’s narration and Brian Gist’s execution, the evening unfolded with seamless continuity from first pour to final bite. Get more information at Rombauer.com.
— Story by Rico Cassoni
Wine Bytes
• Based on a sellout for The Godfather’s Daou Vineyards Wine Dinner, they are now hosting two nights, Wednesday-Thursday, Feb 18-19, at 6 p.m. These exceptional five-course dinners feature pan-seared duck breast with scalloped potatoes and roasted Brussels sprouts paired with the flagship DAOU Soul of a Lion Bordeaux blend. Price is $135 per person, inclusive of tax/tip. RSVP at godfatherrestaurant.com.
• Based on a sellout for West End Bar and Kitchen Caymus Wine Dinner, they are now hosting two nights, Wednesday-Thursday, Feb 25-26, at 6 p.m. These exceptional five-course dinners feature grilled ribeye steak with wild mushroom risotto and baby heirloom carrots paired with flagship Caymus Special Select Cabernet Sauvignon. Price is $130 per person, inclusive of tax/tip. RSVP at westenddelmar.com.
Rico Cassoni is executive producer for Taste of Wine and Food. He and founder/advisor Frank Mangio, a renowned wine connoisseur certified by Wine Spectator, are two of the leading reviewers online. Reach them at [email protected].
