Urban Kitchen Group (UKG), founded and led by visionary restaurateur Tracy Borkum, recently celebrated a milestone 16 years in the making: the Sweet 16 of her Michelin Bib Gourmand flagship, Cucina Urbana in Bankers Hill.
Since opening, Cucina Urbana has redefined the San Diego dining scene with its creative, seasonally driven Italian-inspired cuisine, infused with the freshness of Southern California, and an on-premise retail wine shop. Frank and I were excited to be invited to Tracy’s private anniversary party, a gathering that reflected her signature warmth and flair.
Cucina Urbana’s Sweet 16 party was an evening of food, drink, music, and community, true to the spirit of what Tracy envisioned when opening in 2008. Guests mingled with Tracy and her team while enjoying the lively atmosphere and inventive flavors that have become hallmarks of the Cucina name.
The restaurant’s modern Italian kitchen-meets-bohemian vibe set the perfect backdrop for the celebration. Three culinary stations showcased the kitchen’s creativity and commitment to quality ingredients and sustainability.
One station featured rich beef cheek ragu over creamy Tehachapi Grain Project polenta alongside a vibrant shrimp puttanesca radiatore tossed with Castelvetrano olives, capers, Calabrian chili, and tomato.
A second station presented a stunning 24-month Prosciutto di Parma with grande stracciatella, sungold tomato conserva, focaccia crostini, and seared tuna lettuce cups accented with olive tapenade.
The final station was dedicated to pizza, featuring soppressata and fennel sausage, mushroom and goat cheese with truffle oil, and a classic margherita that showcased house-made mozzarella and fresh basil. The evening was a testament to culinary director Tim Kolanko, also known as TK.
TK’s storied career has taken him from The Lodge at Torrey Pines’ A.R. Valentien to Liberty Public Market to Stake Chophouse + Bar — and now to his role as culinary director for UKG, which operates 10 restaurant units across San Diego and Orange counties. Within the group, he also serves as a chef-partner for several of UKG’s acclaimed concepts.
Since joining Borkum in 2019, his focus on sustainable sourcing and fostering strong relationships with farmers has elevated the quality of every plate served under his guidance.
Frank and I also visited Cucina Enoteca in Del Mar, one of Urbana’s three sister restaurants, for a full tasting of its contemporary Italian cuisine, also with a retail wine shop. Executive chef Cesar Sarmiento oversees the kitchens at Cucina Enoteca’s Del Mar, Newport Beach and Irvine locations.
Classically trained at Le Cordon Bleu Miami and seasoned at Gordon Ramsay’s restaurant in Boca Raton and Chicago’s Spiaggia, Sarmiento complements TK’s vision, bringing collaboration and a sense of experimentation to every menu.
We were warmly welcomed at Cucina Enoteca by General Manager Joseph Breslow, Director of Operations Mark Bernardo, and Director of Marketing and Communications Jamie Mae Disney. Assistant GM Varisa “V” Lertburapa and our server, Isil Oz, ensured every detail of our dining experience was flawless.
Our meal began with roasted garlic and rosemary focaccia served with cultured herb butter and sea salt, followed by a delicate tempura-fried squash blossom stuffed with goat cheese and pistou and drizzled with orange blossom honey.
A baseball-sized pork and veal meatball arrived next, resting on a bed of mascarpone polenta and finished with a spicy tomato sauce. I paired these appetizers with a lush Polvanera Primitivo from Puglia, Italy, while Frank chose a crisp Benvolio Estate Pinot Grigio from Friuli, Italy and then shifted to the Primitivo after tasting mine.
Next came the Italian chopped salad, packed with more than 14 fresh, flavorful ingredients, paired with a light margherita pizza made with dough fermented for 24 hours, resulting in an airy, delicate texture. I transitioned to a Stolpman “La Cuadrilla” Syrah blend from Ballard Canyon, CA, whose juicy, ripe notes beautifully enhanced our main courses.
For entrees, we savored two of Cucina Enoteca’s house-made pastas. The rigatoni bolognese, prepared with veal and pork and brightened by creamy lemon ricotta, was hearty yet refined. The signature short rib mafaldine was a revelation. Its long, ribbon-like noodles perfectly captured the rich short-rib ragu with mushrooms, cherry tomatoes, baby kale, and Parmesan cheese in every bite.
We concluded the evening with two standout desserts. The signature chocolate budino was decadent, layered with salted caramel, vanilla whip, chocolate crumble, and a cocoa nib tuile. The pavlova, with strawberry, passion fruit curd, and whipped crème fraîche, was light and refreshing, with just the right tartness to awaken the palate.
It’s rare to see a restaurant reach 16 years and remain as vibrant and relevant as it was on day one, and even rarer to have a family of restaurants that continues to innovate and inspire. Tracy Borkum and her talented team have given San Diego and Orange counties a gift with each Cucina location, blending Italian warmth, California freshness, and a welcoming, artistic spirit.
Here’s to the next Sweet 16 and many more memorable meals. Get more info at urbankitchengroup.com.
Salute!
— Story by Rico Cassoni
Wine Bytes
Celebrate Del Mar Opening Day at Cucina Enoteca’s Secret Garden Soirée from 6-9 p.m. on Friday, July 18. This no-cover event features live music by Linwood Polk, WhistlePig Rye Whiskey tastings, specialty cocktails, and signature bites like the CUCINA meatball and squash blossoms. Located just minutes from the track, it’s the perfect pre- or post-race hangout. Reserve your spot at urbankitchengroup.com.
