If you have followed my plate licking adventures over the years, you are probably aware that I have a bit of an obsession with bagels and, until recently, our lack of access to these glutenous delights in North County.
Decent versions have popped up in the area over the past few years, including Inglourious Bagels, Top of the Bagel and Garden State Bagels.
And now with the addition of New Wave Bagel on Coast Highway 101 in Encinitas, bagel enthusiasts/snobs in all corners of North County have solid options to choose from. And let me tell you, the term snob is all relative when it comes to bagels. I thought I was right up there with the snobbiest of them until I had conversations with certain folks from the East Coast who definitely have serious opinions on the topic.
Essentially, the debate centers on the fermentation process. Traditional bagels are made with commercial yeast, whereas some of the newer, chef-driven bagel joints, such as New Wave, are leavened with a sourdough starter. This leads to a slower, more complex fermentation that develops the bagel’s distinctive characteristics.
Like traditional bagels, they are boiled before baking to create a shiny, crisp exterior and dense, chewy interior, and for me, that is the defining characteristic. However, for those accustomed to New York-style, this can be a point of contention. All I can say to you folks is give New Wave Bagel a shot; you may be pleasantly surprised.
For the casual enthusiast, you are going to love New Wave, and as a bonus, you may find sourdough bagels easier to digest due to the natural fermentation process, which breaks down complex carbohydrates and gluten.
OK, now that we have that out of the way, let’s talk about the talent behind New Wave Bagel and their most excellent current offerings. Cheryl Storms and business partner Matt Cardwell are the driving force behind the venture and for the past year have been popping up at Ironsmith Coffee in Encinitas and Michi Michi in Bankers Hill while keeping their eyes open for a permanent home…one that materialized in Leucadia across the street from the iconic Juanita’s Taco Shop, one of the more desirable locations anywhere, in my opinion.
Both bakers have impressive culinary resumes between them, including cutting their chops in San Francisco and opening Wayfarer Bread in Bird Rock together. Besides bonding over their passion for baking, their musical inclinations leaned towards punk and new wave…hence the name, which has a dual meaning given its proximity to some of the best surfing in San Diego.
Storms was a finalist on Food Network’s “Holiday Baking Championship” Season 3, winner of the show’s “Runners Up Redemption” episode, and a competitor on “Best Baker in America.” She has also worked as a freelance chef consultant, food stylist and recipe writer, testing and writing recipes that have appeared on “Good Morning America,” “The Today Show,” and “Home & Family.” So yeah, there is some serious culinary talent going on here.
While bagels are their focus, given the world-class baking experience between the two of them, it made sense to stray a bit from the bagel focus, including bialys, which were new to me and an unexpected delight.
Bialys are made with flattened bagel dough with a divot in the middle that can be filled with sweet or savory delights. I tried the Shak Shuka Bialy, which includes egg and a mixture of spiced, stewed tomatoes, onions, peppers and cheese baked into the bagel divot. Wow, big love for this new sensation. They also offered bialys on the sweet side, with fig and honey, as well as vanilla versions.
The Everything and Marbled Rye bagels with schmear were both outstanding, and on the days I visited, they also offered Plain, Jalapeno Cheddar, Double Chocolate, Cherry Cardamom, and Za’atar. So yes, proof once again that these are chef-driven bagels.
Several cream cheeses rotate seasonally, with options such as honey vanilla, yellow peaches, and local raspberries, among others.
I must say that I was equally impressed by the Cinnamon Coffee Cake. I’m not big on sweets for breakfast, but this was good — I’d say the best I’ve had. And it was sizable enough to enjoy with coffee again that night for dessert.
I should note that the launch of New Wave Bagel is happening in phases. As it stands now, it’s more like a permanent pop-up with limited sweet and savory options, so get there early as they do sell out!
The next phase in their sizable space will feature on-site kitchen operations, with both indoor and outdoor seating. Those capabilities will also enable them to expand their menu to include breakfast sandwiches and more. They currently offer sidewalk tables or on-site noshing.
I should note that while the line can stretch down the sidewalk, it moves quickly, so be patient, as it is definitely worth the wait.
I also recorded a Lick the Plate radio show with chef-owner Cheryl Storms, who shares more of her fascinating story and some of her more insightful thoughts on food and music. Check it out at lick-the-plate.com.
And check out New Wave Bagel at 312 N. Coast Highway in Encinitas, and stay up to date on their progress and pre-order bagels at newwavebagel.com.
