Before I dive into the latest chapter of New Wave Bagel, a quick confession: I have a bagel problem. A problem in the sense that I am way too discerning and can sometimes get somewhat argumentative on the topic.
Readers of this column already know that. Last year, when I first introduced New Wave Bagel in Leucadia, I wrote about my lifelong search for a truly memorable bagel in North County and how chef-owners Cheryl Storms and Matt Cardwell had finally given local bagel lovers something worth lining up for.
Their naturally fermented sourdough bagels, inventive bialys and chef-driven approach immediately elevated the conversation. Well, consider this the sequel.
All that said, there were some limitations back then, including a fairly big one in that they still had to bring their bagels in from a commissary. And, due to long lines, toasted bagels were not an option. That said, those in the know were well aware that New Wave was in the process of building out their on-site kitchen and prep area, so a good thing was about to get incredible.
The vision that Cheryl shared with me during that first visit has officially come to life. Their on-site kitchen is now fully operational, and with it comes an expanded menu of sweet and savory breakfast and lunch bagel sandwiches and toasts that transforms New Wave from an exceptional bagel joint into one that should be on your weekly must-visit list.
The beauty of New Wave Bagel has always been that they never wanted to simply re-create a New York bagel shop. Instead, they’ve created something uniquely Southern California — one rooted in artisan sourdough baking, local farms, seasonal ingredients and the kind of culinary creativity that comes from two chefs who have spent years perfecting what they do.
A quick refresher on their process and sourcing of ingredients as it is important to know the thought and labor that goes into their menu. Each bagel is naturally fermented using sourdough starter rather than commercial yeast, then hand-rolled, boiled and baked fresh daily.
The result is that beautiful contrast between a crackly exterior and a wonderfully chewy interior that every serious bagel fan chases. It also provides a depth of flavor that keeps revealing itself with every bite.
But now those bagels have become the foundation for something even more exciting. By adding a full kitchen, they have opened up an elevated dining experience.
The sandwiches exist because the bagels deserve them, not because somebody decided they needed more menu items. So, let’s get down on it and talk bagel sandwiches.
The Two Egg Patty has cheddar, local greens and garlic chive cream cheese as its base. Fancy it up a bit by adding your choice of bacon, avocado, house kimchi or house hot sauce. I did it with bacon and oh my, this is a sizable sandwich that I split between breakfast and lunch, and both filled me up.
The Pastrami Spiced Roast Beef is another bagel sandwich masterpiece. The pastrami roast beef (think a milder pastrami) is cooked in-house then constructed on your choice of bagel with house dill pickle, shaved onion, heirloom tomato, local greens and horseradish cream cheese.
Sounds like a lot going on and there is, but the flavors work together like a symphonic convergence of the highest order. And not only that, the ingredients also tend to stay intact with each bite, which is a sure sign of a well-executed bagel sandwich.
There is also a Herb Roasted Turkey sandwich with house roasted turkey breast, cucumber, shaved onion, local greens, tomato, vinaigrette and avocado with bacon as an option. Not had this one yet but I will be back for it soon.
Toasts are another fabulous new category that help elevate New Wave Bagel, and as with the sandwiches, they rock it solid.
Smoked Fish has cold smoked and cured local white fish, chili crisp cream cheese, cucumber and radish on sesame bagel and it’s delightful. I should add that the fish is wild caught locally and they smoke and cure their fish in-house.
The Heirloom Tomato Toast has local tomatoes, garlic chive cream cheese, tomato and parm and oh yeah, love this one as well.
Cucumber and Avocado Toast comes with local cucumbers, local avocado, scallion, chili flake and lemon, and it’s going to work its way into my rotation for sure.
And finally, we wrap up the toast category with a couple of sweet selections. Cinnamon Toast has house salted cultured butter, cinnamon and sugar and believe me, the butter will make you very happy. The Summer Fruit Toast has honey vanilla cream cheese, fresh peach and strawberries, and it sounds delightful.
As I wrote in my original column, New Wave Bagel was always opening in phases. Cheryl and Matt had a long-term vision that included a fully functioning kitchen, expanded seating and an ambitious sandwich program.
They’ve delivered. Actually, they’ve exceeded expectations. I’d suggest getting there early and often.
New Wave Bagel is located at 312 North Coast Highway 101 in Leucadia and is open Wednesday through Sunday. www.newwavebagel.com
