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Grilled dry-aged ribeye, roasted carrot, and mascarpone-whipped potatoes paired with Groth 2022 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, the evening’s star pairing. Photo by Rico Cassoni
Grilled dry-aged ribeye, roasted carrot, and mascarpone-whipped potatoes paired with Groth 2022 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, the evening’s star pairing. Photo by Rico Cassoni
ColumnsFood & WineTaste of Wine

Napa Valley greats Groth and Orin Swift headline local wine dinners

West End Bar & Kitchen recently welcomed 80 guests for a sold-out, five-course dinner featuring Groth Vineyards & Winery. Among them were 24 members of the American Institute of Wine and Food’s San Diego chapter, according to Susan Buxbaum, the chapter’s treasurer and a board member.

Groth’s West region sales manager, Eric Wooliever, shared the winery’s history and tasting notes, while West End executive chef Carlos Ramirez created the pairings.

Groth’s story began in 1981 when Dennis and Judy Groth purchased a neglected 121-acre vineyard along Oakville Cross Road. Before entering the wine business, Dennis worked for Arthur Young, handling its Atari account. He later joined the video game company, rising to executive vice president and chief financial officer after its sale to Warner Communications. Business trips to Paris deepened his appreciation for wine and inspired his vision of owning a winery.

Real estate partners Ren Harris and Jean Phillips introduced the Groths to the property. Harris later established Paradigm Winery, while Phillips founded cult winery Screaming Eagle.

Groth’s first crush followed in 1982. Its reputation soared when the 1985 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon became the first American wine to earn 100 points from critic Robert Parker. Today, their daughter Suzanne Groth leads the family winery as president and CEO.

The dinner opened with the 2025 Sauvignon Blanc, blended with 12% semillon and fermented in neutral oak barrels. Its crisp character and smooth finish complemented a winter citrus and goat cheese salad.

The 2023 Estate Chardonnay from Groth’s cooler Hillview Estate in Oak Knoll accompanied a house-made Dungeness crab cake with citrus aioli and cilantro. Originally purchased for merlot, the fog-influenced estate proved equally suited to chardonnay.

Winter citrus and goat cheese salad paired with Groth 2025 Sauvignon Blanc. Photo by Rico Cassoni
Winter citrus and goat cheese salad paired with Groth 2025 Sauvignon Blanc. Photo by Rico Cassoni
West End Bar & Kitchen Proprietor, Sal Ercolano (left) and Groth West Region Sales Manager Eric Wooliever. Photo by Rico Cassoni
West End proprietor Sal Ercolano (left) and Groth West Region Sales Manager Eric Wooliever. Photo by Rico Cassoni
Dark chocolate lava cake with blackberry reduction and orange blossom whipped cream dry-aged ribeye, roasted carrot, and mascarpone-whipped potatoes paired with Groth 2021 Oakcross Proprietary Red. Photo by Rico Cassoni
Dark chocolate lava cake with blackberry reduction and orange blossom whipped cream. Photo by Rico Cassoni

The 2022 Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon accompanied a slow-braised heritage beef short rib over black truffle risotto with Asian demi-glace and fresh horseradish. Aged 19 months in 50% new French oak and blended with 13% merlot, it offered blackberry, cocoa, dark plum and black tea notes with silky tannins.

Wooliever then spoiled guests with the 2022 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. Sourced from the iron-rich Conn Creek portion of Groth’s Oakville Estate, it delivered dark fruit, espresso and buttery-soft tannins after 21 months in 100% new French oak. Paired with Ramirez’s grilled dry-aged rib-eye, roasted carrot and mascarpone-whipped potatoes, it created the evening’s star pairing.

Dinner concluded with the 2021 Oakcross Proprietary Red, a blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and petit verdot, alongside dark chocolate lava cake with blackberry reduction and orange blossom whipped cream. Get more information at grothwines.com.

Reconnecting with Orin Swift at Vittorio’s

Vittorio’s Italian Trattoria in Carmel Valley’s Highland Village gave Frank and me an opportunity to reconnect with the creatively themed wines of Orin Swift Cellars. Breakthru Beverage Group’s Scott Blackburn introduced E. & J. Gallo’s Tyler Williams, who shared the winery’s history and tasting notes. Executive chef Angel Gijon created dishes perfect for pairing.

Dave Phinney founded Orin Swift in 1998 and created The Prisoner in 2000. The unconventional zinfandel-led blend became a national phenomenon. Phinney later sold it to Huneeus Vintners under an agreement prohibiting him from making zinfandel for eight years. In 2016, Huneeus sold The Prisoner Wine Company to Constellation Brands for $285 million.

Later that year, Phinney sold Orin Swift to E. & J. Gallo. He remains Orin Swift’s winemaker and creative director.

Tyler Williams, E. & J. Gallo Rep (left), Scott Blackburn, BreakThru Beverage Group Sales Rep, and Victor Magalhaes, Proprietor, Vittorio’s Italian Trattoria. Photo by Rico Cassoni
Tyler Williams, E. & J. Gallo Rep (left), Scott Blackburn, BreakThru Beverage Group Sales Rep, and Victor Magalhaes, Proprietor, Vittorio’s Italian Trattoria. Photo by Rico Cassoni
Grilled Bistro beef tenderloin, potato gratin, and garlic broccolini paired with 2024 8 Years in the Desert. Photo by Rico Cassoni
Grilled beef tenderloin, potato gratin, and garlic broccolini paired with 2024 8 Years in the Desert. Photo by Rico Cassoni

Guests were welcomed with the 2025 Blank Stare Sauvignon Blanc, offering Asian pear and citrus notes with added depth from French oak and acacia vessels rather than stainless steel. Blank Stare represented Phinney’s first exploration of white wine after his zinfandel noncompete took effect.

The 2024 Mannequin Chardonnay accompanied a grilled crab cake with cauliflower puree and fennel-dill butter sauce. Nine months in French oak, 27% new, imparted flavors of peach and apple, with hints of lemon pith.

Conchiglie al forno (baked shells) filled with ricotta and spinach accompanied Bloodlines Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine’s name was inspired by Phinney’s discovery of generations of winemaking in his family. Its intersecting red rings symbolize Orin, his father’s middle name, and Swift, his mother’s maiden name.

The strongest pairing combined grilled bistro beef tenderloin, potato gratin and garlic broccolini with the 2024 8 Years in the Desert. Named for Phinney’s noncompete, the zinfandel, petite sirah and syrah blend offered blackberry, plum and peppercorn notes with soft tannins.

Scott and Tyler capped the evening with a bonus pour of 2023 Papillon, one of Orin Swift’s premier wines. The cabernet sauvignon-led Bordeaux blend accompanied chef Angel Gijon’s refreshing mango sherbet. Get more information at orinswift.com.

— Column by Rico Cassoni

Wine Bytes

West End Bar & Kitchen presents a five-course DAOU Vineyards wine dinner Thursday, Sept. 24. The centerpiece pairs herb-crusted Colorado lamb with DAOU’s flagship Soul of a Lion Cabernet Sauvignon. Doors open at 5:30 p.m., with dinner at 6 p.m. Tickets are $145 per person, including tax and gratuity. RSVP at westenddelmar.com.

Vittorio’s hosts a Michael David Winery dinner Thursday, Sept. 24, at 6:30 p.m. The three-course dinner plus dessert features grilled New Zealand lamb chops with creamy polenta, baby carrots, green squash and rosemary demi-glace paired with Outerbound Cabernet Sauvignon. Tickets are $85, plus tax and gratuity. RSVP at 858-538-5884.

Karl Strauss Brewing Company has released its 38th Oktoberfest Märzen Lager. Through October, guests at its nine Southern California brewpubs can keep a filled 0.5-liter stein for $15 or a 1-liter stein for $25, with $6 same-day refills. The lager, at 5% alcohol by volume, offers toasted malt, nutty notes and a crisp finish.

Fall arrives at the Bahia, Catamaran and The Lodge at Torrey Pines with Kids Free San Diego offers at Bahia and Catamaran, Oktoberfest and Halloween Día de los Muertos-themed Mission Bay cruises, themed Dockside 1953 brunches and Celebrate the Craft. A.R. Valentien also debuts a weekend brunch with upscale favorites and tableside Bloody Mary service. Explore participating restaurants and menus online.

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