Peru has quietly become one of the world’s great culinary destinations. Its cuisine blends Indigenous, Spanish, Chinese, Japanese, African, and Italian influences into one of the planet’s most diverse and exciting food cultures.
Carlsbad diners can now experience that rich culinary heritage at Manka Peruvian Cuisine, located just a few blocks from Carlsbad Village.
After taking over the longtime location of Pollos Maria, owner Jorge Wong spent a year and a half transforming the familiar landmark into an upscale dining destination celebrating the authentic flavors of Peru. The renovation included an updated kitchen, dining room, heated patio, and striking murals by Peruvian artist Rudolph Castro. Traditional vessels incorporated throughout the artwork inspired the restaurant’s name.
Manka, the Quechua word for “pot” or “vessel,” is deeply rooted in Peruvian culture and is famously associated with Pachamanca, an ancient feast in which food is cooked beneath the earth.
An added convenience is abundant parking, including free public lots, street parking, and spaces behind the restaurant, a rarity this close to Carlsbad Village.
Shortly after being welcomed by my server, Jonathan Napolis, Wong joined me for dinner and suggested beginning with a refreshing glass of Chicha Morada, Peru’s beloved purple corn beverage infused with fruit and spices. Next came Peru’s signature Pisco Sour, handcrafted with grape brandy, fresh lime juice, Angostura bitters, and frothy egg white. Both paired perfectly with the appetizers.
Ceviche Manka combined mahi mahi, tender octopus, shrimp, choclo and chulpi corn, sweet potato brulee, fried seaweed, and crisp plantain chips in vibrant rocoto tiger’s milk. The anise-infused sweet potato was the surprise star, its subtle spice reminding me of Thanksgiving. Equally memorable were the Anticuchos de Corazón, tender veal heart skewers grilled over high heat and served with golden potatoes, giant Peruvian corn, and chimichurri.
Conversation over appetizers revealed the journey that brought Wong from Lima to Carlsbad. Born to a Chinese-Peruvian family, he arrived in Southern California at 19 intending to study engineering before discovering a passion for hospitality at the famed Polo Lounge at the Beverly Hills Hotel.
“I would think about the cost of every chair, every table, and every kitchen tool,” Wong recalled. “I became fascinated by everything that created the restaurant experience.”
That attention to detail is evident throughout Manka. Wong went on to open Mancora Peruvian Cuisine and Las Brasas in Los Angeles before bringing his vision for Manka’s upscale experience to Carlsbad. Executive Chef Julio Arias, whose culinary career includes luxury hotels in Peru and New York’s acclaimed Artesano Peruvian Cuisine, shares Wong’s commitment to elevating authentic Peruvian cuisine.
For entrees, Wong recommended Fettuccine a la Huancaina con Lomo Saltado. Tender wok-fired beef was served beside fettuccine coated in a rich, creamy Huancaina cheese sauce, highlighting the Chinese influence that helped shape modern Peruvian cuisine. Also outstanding was Arroz con Pato, featuring perfectly cooked duck breast served over traditional norteño rice with vegetables and Huancaina sauce.
Dinner ended with Cheesecake de Maracuyá, a silky passion-fruit cheesecake topped with passion-fruit syrup, berries, mint, and graham crumble. When I asked Wong about the blend of cheeses used, he simply smiled and replied, “It’s a secret.”
Whether dining beneath Castro’s colorful murals inside or on the heated patio, Manka delivers an authentic taste of Peru through refined hospitality, handcrafted cocktails, and exceptional cuisine. Open Tuesday through Thursday from noon to 9 p.m. and Friday through Sunday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. View the menu or make reservations at OpenTable.com.
Piazza 1909 Celebrates Sicily, Sardinia Under the Stars
Piazza 1909’s popular “Dinner Under the Stars” series continued with a celebration of the cuisines of Sicily and Sardinia. More than 60 guests gathered on the restaurant’s patio overlooking La Jolla Cove for a family-style dinner featuring specialties from Italy’s two largest Mediterranean islands, accompanied by music from Luiz Max & Blue Moon Band.
The evening began with Ribolla Gialla Brut Millesimato sparkling wine, followed by saffron risotto arancini stuffed with smoked scamorza and Fregola con Arselle, featuring fresh clams and Fregola Cous Cous.
Homemade spaghetti with bottarga and scallops preceded Involtini di Pesce Spada, swordfish rolls with Sicilian capers, golden raisins, roasted pistachios, and lemon zest. Traditional Sicilian cannoli provided a sweet finale.
Optional wine pairings, presented by Davide Montemurri of DaVigna Wines, showcased indigenous varietals including Semidano, Grillo, and Etna Rosso.
The series concludes August 15 with a Ferragosto celebration from 6:30 to 9:00 p.m. Dinner is $69++ per person, with optional Italian wine pairings for purchase. RSVP at OpenTable.com.
Wine Bytes
The Lodge at Torrey Pines will host its 23rd annual Celebrate the Craft on Oct. 18. The signature culinary festival brings together chefs, farmers, ranchers, vintners, brewers and artisans for an afternoon celebrating California’s culinary bounty. RSVP at celebratethecraft.com.
The Butcher Shop Restaurant will host a Duckhorn Vineyards Wine Dinner at 6 p.m. Thursday, July 23. The five-course dinner, curated by Executive Chef Brian Gist, features Australian Wagyu New York strip with buttermilk chive whipped potatoes, roasted asparagus and blistered grape tomatoes, paired with Duckhorn Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville. The cost is $130 per person, inclusive of tax and gratuity. RSVP at butchershopsandiego.com.
Vittorio’s Italian Trattoria in Carmel Valley will host a Stags’ Leap Wine Dinner at 6 p.m. Thursday, July 30. Guests will enjoy a three-course dinner and dessert prepared by Executive Chef Angelo Gijo. The main course features grilled hanger steak with scalloped potatoes and creamed spinach, paired with Stags’ Leap Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. The cost is $85 per person, plus tax and gratuity. RSVP by calling 858-538-5884.
Rico Cassoni is the executive producer of Taste of Wine and Food. He and founder/adviser Frank Mangio, a renowned wine connoisseur certified by Wine Spectator, are among the web’s leading food-and-wine reviewers. Read their latest columns at tasteofwineandfood.com under “Recent Columns,” or contact them at [email protected]
