The Coast News Group
Jorge’s grandson Jaime Martinez and cook Joel Navarro proudly displaying their world class chicken soup. Photo by David Boylan
Jorge’s grandson Jaime Martinez and cook Joel Navarro proudly displaying their world class chicken soup. Photo by David Boylan
CitiesColumnsCommunityEncinitasFood & WineLick the Plate

Jorge’s Mexicatessen arrives in Leucadia

For those of us still grieving the loss of Karina’s Taco Shop, the arrival of an equally iconic and storied Mexican restaurant to take its place should provide some comfort and even cause for celebration. Jorge’s Mexicatessen has arrived in the heart of Leucadia, and I, for one, am quite excited, especially after my first few visits.

Some may argue that a classic Mexican restaurant known for its unique style has been replaced by another establishment whose history and loyal customer base rival, if not exceed, Karina’s. As in all matters involving Mexican restaurants in the area, the debates can be endless and spirited. Let’s just all agree that we are quite lucky to have the plethora of quality offerings that we do.

But enough about that; what’s done is done, and we should celebrate the fact that one of the pioneers of what I consider to be the most delicious Mexican (or is it Encinitas)-style chicken soup is now providing Leucadians with an even more convenient place to enjoy it.

Before I discuss what I consider the best chicken soup on the planet, I should note that several area restaurants serve a very similar style of soup in appearance, ingredients, flavor, and what many consider to be healing properties.

The healing goodness of Jorge’s chicken soup with a giant flour tortilla. Photo by David Boylan
The healing goodness of Jorge’s chicken soup with a giant flour tortilla. Photo by David Boylan

I’ve written extensively about this in the past, as La Especial Norte, Lourdes, and Raul’s Shack all create their own version of this world-class soup, whose flavorful broth, generous chunks of chicken, rice, tomatoes, cilantro, avocado, and more combine with your choice of corn or flour tortillas to create an almost religious soup experience.

I should also point out that, according to some old-school locals, the families of La Especial Norte, Jorge’s, and Raul’s Shack worked together at one point. That said, Jorge himself is considered by many to be the godfather of Mexican soup in the area and to whom many of the others owe their success. His grandson, Jaime Martinez, is running the new Leucadia location and is bringing youthful enthusiasm to his role while staying true to the culinary traditions that made Jorge’s what it is today.

I guess one could call my new dilemma of visiting Jorge’s (one block from home) or La Especial Norte (five blocks) a “high-class problem” and one that I gladly welcome into my life. I’m sure that for someone more discerning than myself on the topic, there are slight differences in their chicken soups, but dang, it’s tough for me to decipher them.

They even look the same in the bowl! I can say that, as a fan of flour tortillas, La Especial Norte provides two large tortillas, while Jorge’s goes with one giant tortilla.

And speaking of tortillas, if you order this soup to go, which is very doable as it travels well, I suggest charring up the flour tortillas on your gas burner if you have that available. The char really adds a delightful element to the experience.

OK, besides the soup, my next test was the fish tacos and well, as much as I am hesitant to say this, they are right up there with my favorites, which had been enjoyed at Juanita’s about a mile south on Coast Highway 101.

The amazing crunch cod fish tacos at Jorge’s Mexicatessen. Photo by David Boylan
The amazing crunch cod fish tacos at Jorge’s Mexicatessen. Photo by David Boylan

Jorge’s uses cod, which is extra crispy and about as good as fish tacos get. I have to say I really love the crema that Juanita’s spreads across the top, but let’s say, again, how lucky we are to live in the best place in the world for fish tacos — or at least the United States.

A breakfast burrito is another test for me, and once again, Jorge’s exceeded my expectations. The tortilla was soft and wrapped perfectly around the potatoes, salsa fresca, eggs, cheese, and your choice of bacon or ham. Bacon for me, please. It took everything I had not to scarf this down in one early morning sitting, but my portion control took over, and I easily extended it to lunch by cutting it in half.

I should also mention that I am totally down for a cold leftover breakfast burrito, and the tortilla kept its soft and pliable qualities when some tend to dry out after sitting in a refrigerator.

Besides the stellar breakfast burritos, several other solid options to start the day are available, including Huevos Rancheros, Huevos Con Chorizo, Huevos A La Mexicana, and Chilaquiles Con Huevos.

All the other regular Mexican joint menu options are represented well on Jorge’s menu, and based on my experiences so far, I’ll be back to eat my way through it, including the Chicken Mole tacos and Taco Salad served in a crispy tortilla when I am feeling gluten-aware, my new mantra for eating lighter at lunch as gluten-free will never enter my vocabulary.

Jorge’s in Leucadia is a delightful new addition to the dining scene, and I’m happy to have them. Find Jorge’s at 916 N. Coast Highway 101, Encinitas.

Leave a Comment