We revisited Fresco Cocina in Carlsbad Village, where executive chef Travis McKinnon presents a modern take on Latin cuisine. “The creative menu fuses Peruvian tradition with Mexican flair,” McKinnon said, offering shareable plates and main courses for those who enjoy bold, bright flavors.
McKinnon’s goal is a higher level of cuisine that is more approachable. The restaurant’s owner, Linda DiNitto, also owns a sister restaurant, 264 Fresco, just a block away. McKinnon’s culinary background includes working for and training with chef Brian Malarkey’s Restaurant. The menu, updated three times a year, recently transitioned to its spring and summer offerings.
McKinnon highlighted three new items: Brazilian Prime Skirt Steak, Whole Roasted Red Snapper Veracruz, and Mole Spiced Salmon. With such enticing options, patrons face the challenge of deciding what to try now and planning their next visit based on what they missed.
One notable change since our last visit to Fresco is the arrival of their new general manager, Mike Nybo, who oversees their bar and wine program, selecting wines from Argentina, Spain, Mexico, and California, maintaining their Latin influence.
Nybo, originally from Vancouver, Canada, began his culinary journey at The Keg Steakhouse, progressing from dishwasher to bar back, bartender, and line cook. His experience also includes five years bartending at the Donnelly Group, as well as stints in bartending internationally in the Turks and Caicos Islands and Australia, before spending a year in Brooklyn, NY.
Nybo’s extensive background in bartending allows him to create innovative cocktails like the Oaxaca Old Fashioned. I loved this creation, which combines Anejo Tequilla, mezcal, and chocolate bitters.
McKinnon, Nybo and server Giana Stephenson guided our culinary journey, beginning with Cocina’s addictive tortilla and doro chips, complemented by my old fashioned cocktail and Frank’s glass of Albarino wine from Spain.
Our starters included three short rib empanadas featuring a soft, flaky dough filled with flavorful meat seasoned with Peruvian spices, garnished with pickled raisins, and plated with aji verde sauce. Alongside, we enjoyed delicate yellowtail tuna fish tacos with a crisp beer batter, served in corn tortillas and topped with citrus slaw, avocado salsa, and pineapple salsa — both were perfect for sharing and a meal in themselves.
For our main entrees, Frank could not resist the roasted Chilean Seabass entrée served with black rice, chayote squash, and roasted corn salsa. Like the yellowtail, the seabass was perfectly cooked, resulting in a flaky, delicious Latin fish entrée. He also had a North Coast Laguna Baja beer. Being a fajitas lover, the Peruvian Steak Fajitas was an easy choice for me, especially with Giana’s affirmation.
The Angus beef tenderloin strips were amazingly tender and had onions, peppers, and tomatoes immersed into the dish. The provided flour tortillas (corn is also available) made a “create your own” wrap experience. The yuca fries and rice further enhanced this authentic Peruvian masterpiece. I shifted to the Urbina Gran Reserva Rioja to pair with my fajitas.
It would be hard not to choose this for future visits to Cocina, but there are so many more amazing dishes, including the three new dishes described above, that Chef McKinnon added to the new spring/summer menu.
We wrapped up our Latin/Mexican culinary adventure with Dulce de Leche bread pudding. A thick slice of sweet bread was topped with a glaze and garnished with churro fries and strawberry coulis. Chef Travis, Mike, and Giana delivered a mouthwatering ethnic experience. If you’re seeking authentic Latin cuisine with Mexican influences, Fresco Cocina is the spot for you. More details are available at frescococina.com.
— Story by Rico Cassoni
Wine Bytes
— In recognition of World Tuna Day on May 2, Del Mar’s Glass Box will launch a special menu dedicated to celebrating the culinary excellence of tuna. This unique menu will be available from May 2-5. Chef and owner Ethan Yang will donate 10% of the proceeds from this menu to the Surfrider Foundation San Diego chapter, a nonprofit defending ocean health. Diners can enjoy individual dishes à la carte or the full menu, including dessert, for $85. Reservations can be made at glassboxsd.com.
— Congratulations to owner Randy Smerik, chef Denice Grande, and the entire Solare Ristorante team for their impressive achievements in the San Diego Magazine “Best Restaurants” 2024 awards. They secured several notable accolades, including being named a Top 5 restaurant in all of San Diego, receiving the award for the best service in the city, being the runner-up for the Best Italian restaurant, and boasting the best wine list in San Diego. Additionally, Amalfi Cucina Italiana, at Lake San Marcos and in San Diego Carmel Valley, was named the Reader’s Choice for the best Italian restaurant.
For over 40 years, the Paso Wine Fest has been the marquee showcase for Paso Robles wine. This year’s four-day celebration, taking place from May 16-19, promises an exciting lineup. At the Grand Tasting on May 18, experience 100+ wineries, live entertainment, artisans, winemakers, distilled spirits, VIP exclusives, and elevated brand experiences. The festival continues with over 100 individual winery events throughout the weekend, offering attendees a comprehensive Paso wine experience.
Rico Cassoni is the executive producer for Taste of Wine and Food. Founder and advisor Frank Mangio is a renowned wine connoisseur certified by Wine Spectator. Cassoni and Mangio are two of the leading reviewers on the web. View their columns at tasteofwineandfood.com, go to recent columns, and reach them at [email protected].
