For the past three years, I’ve hosted Keith Rolle, owner and winemaker of Gianni Buonomo Vintners, and Al Dorvinen, Giannia Buonomo’s wine club manager, at my home, Casa Cassoni, for our annual pizza pilgrimage.
This tradition blends my passion for crafting authentic Neapolitan pizzas with their award-winning wines. Notably, Gianni Buonomo has been named the best San Diego winery by San Diego Magazine for six consecutive years.
Making great Neapolitan Margherita pizza starts months in advance. Each February, I plant non-GMO San Marzano tomato seeds, known for their unique flavor and meaty texture. This year, I experimented with a 48-hour cold-proofed dough using Italian “00” flour, resulting in a pillowy soft crust that was easy to stretch.
My Kamado Joe ceramic cooker reaches over 900°F, allowing pizzas to bake in just two minutes and achieve the signature “leoparding” on the crust — a hallmark of the true Neapolitan style.
Keith and Al, Gianni Buonomo’s owner/winemaker and wine club manager, respectively, arrived with five exceptional wines from Gianni Buonomo, focusing on rare and underappreciated varietals that intrigue adventurous wine enthusiasts. Three were from their California Collection, with grapes sourced from Amador County in the Sierra Foothills.
We began with the 2021 Barbera, offering blackberry, black cherry, and raspberry flavors with light tannins — a delightful match for the Margherita pizzas. Next was the 2020 Nebbiolo, a full-bodied wine with aromas of spicy rose petal and leather, notes of cola and dusty oak, and a hint of tart cherry on the finish. Our third California wine was the 2020 Lagrein.
Typically used for blending, Keith skillfully crafted this into a full-bodied wine featuring dark berries, chocolate and spice, with assertive tannins. All California Collection wines are barrel-aged in French oak for 24 months.
We also enjoyed the 2020 Sangiovese, made with grapes sourced from Washington’s Rattlesnake Hills AVA. It offered cherry, plum, and cranberry on the palate, with a hint of black tea on the finish. Keith concluded with the 2016 Aglianico from the Buonomo Reserve series, aged 36 months, in once-used French oak. This wine had a savory red berry palate with hints of leather and spice, pairing beautifully with the pizzas.
Exciting changes are underway for Gianni Buonomo. They’re moving to a new location on Hancock Street near Pechanga Arena in Point Loma. After nine years in Ocean Beach, the move offers benefits like better parking and nearby food options. The new location is slated to open in October. Learn more at gbvintners.com.
Fiftyrow: Quality Wines Without the Price Tag
Continuing our exploration of standout wineries, we turn to Napa Valley’s Fiftyrow. Founded in 2002 by Paul Johnson and legendary Napa winemaker Gary Galleron — known for his work with Vineyard 29, Grace Family and Chateau Montelena — Fiftyrow has become an under-the-radar favorite from New York to Los Angeles.
From the outset, Paul told Gary, “Do not make the wine; teach me to make the wine.” After years of hands-on training, Paul became the winemaker in 2011. With Gary shifting to semi-retirement, Paul brought Jake Stuessy—a Galleron protégé—on board. They are a great team and reach out to Gary as necessary to tap his decades of winemaking knowledge.
Fiftyrow’s mission is to produce great wines accessible to a broad audience. They focus on single-vineyard wines from Napa Valley without the triple-digit price tag. They meticulously source sustainably grown vineyards to create top-quality, small-production wines like their single-vineyard Rutherford Cabernet, which recently received 96 points.
I had the pleasure of tasting two of their gems. The 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, sourced from Alice Block in Rutherford, was rated among the seven best wines from the Rutherford AVA by the Robb Report. This elegant wine displays a garnet to an inky purple hue, with aromas of blue fruits, black raspberry, and cinnamon. Velvety tannins frame flavors of dried cherry and black cherry.
To celebrate the end of my San Marzano tomato season, I prepared a hearty Bolognese sauce and paired it with the 2021 Fiftyrow Charbono. Sourced from Wheelhouse Vineyard in Suisun Valley, this Charbono offers aromas of black fruits and cocoa. Initially bright, it evolved into a dark, full-bodied wine with rich layers of dark fruits and natural acidity — a perfect match for the robust sauce.
Recognizing changing market demands during the 2008 recession, Paul launched the Smokescreen brand to offer great-value wines under $30. Smokescreen sources grapes from acclaimed vineyards using techniques reserved for pricier wines. The result is wines that overdeliver on quality without compromising affordability.
I also tried two Smokescreens. The 2021 Smokescreen Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is a fruit-forward wine with aromas of blackcurrants and dark chocolate. On the palate, it is full-bodied with notes of dark fruits and toasted mocha, finishing with polished tannins. The 2022 Pinot Noir exhibits balance and elegance, with aromas of blueberry and red raspberry and flavors of blackberries and black cherry.
Kudos to Paul Johnson and his team for crafting high-end Fiftyrow wines alongside budget-friendly Smokescreen offerings, allowing consumers to enjoy quality without compromise. More information at fiftyrow.com.
— Story by Rico Cassoni
Wine Bytes
The Del Mar Wine + Food Festival returns for its second year on October 2-7, 2024, featuring professional athletes, Hollywood celebrities, Food Network stars, James Beard Award-winning chefs, and Michelin-starred talents. Founded in 2023 to redefine modern food festivals, it celebrates San Diego’s dynamic food scene and Southern California’s active lifestyle. Over 25 events in Del Mar and throughout San Diego County include a two-day Grand Tasting, wine and spirits programs, a celebrity pickleball tournament, and various sports activities. Signature events honor LGBTQ+ culinary excellence and Cali-Baja influences. Proceeds benefit Feeding San Diego, the city’s leading hunger relief organization.
Rico Cassoni is the executive producer for Taste of Wine and Food. Cassoni and founder/advisor Frank Mangio, a renowned wine connoisseur certified by Wine Spectator, are two of the leading reviewers on the web. View their columns at tasteofwineandfood.com. Reach them at [email protected].
