Family Winemakers of California, described as an “organization that reflects the small producer’s point of view,” has been the voice for small family wineries for 30 years. The organization’s annual tasting showcase on March 10 at the Del Mar Fairgrounds is a platform for industry professionals and consumers to discover these wineries by engaging with winemakers and representatives.
A good example of meeting with representatives is when Frank and I met Windrun Winery’s husband and wife owner team, Adam and Cameron Arevalos. The Arevalos purchased the nine-year-old Santa Rita Hills winery in 2019. Ken Brown, a renowned winemaker, assists Adam in making the wine.
Every limited-production bottling represents hand-chosen grapes from select vineyards in Santa Barbara County, most notably the Sta. Rita Hills AVA. Adam and Cameron shared their lineup with us, which consists of a 2021 Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay that was crisp with 50% stainless steel and 50% new French oak fermentation.
They were also pouring their 2020 Sta. Rita Hills Grenache (100%), 2019 and 2020 Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noirs, 2019 Thompson Syrah sourced from Alisos, and their 2020 Sta. Rita Hills Rose. These were great-value wines that are worth trying.
We started the show by visiting the Cass Winery booth. Co-owner Ted Plemons was pouring a full lineup of wines that exceeded the generous listing advertised. Cass Winery is known for its Rhone style and Bordeaux wines made from estate fruit under the leadership of winemaker Sterling Kragten.
They model themselves as a French-style estate — I love their tagline, “French DNA + Paso Personality.” The full Cass lineup included 2023 Viognier, 2023 Marsanne, 2023 Oasis Rose, 2022 Grenache, 2021 Rockin’ One Red, 2020 Damas Noir, 2021 Mourvedre, and 2020 Backbone Syrah, Vintage Ted, and Ted spoiled a few guests with a bottle of 2019 Reserve Bordeaux. Each year, the Reserve Bordeaux is a collection of the best fruit grown on the ranch.
The 2019 was beyond delicious, with a full-bodied palate, good acidity, and smooth, well-integrated tannins. The blend was cab sauv (83%) dominant with 8% petit verdot, 6% syrah, and 3% malbec components, aged 22 months in new French oak.
Oceanside’s Coomber Craft Wines well represented San Diego’s North County. We met with owners Maureen and Skip Coomber while enjoying two terrific wines. The first was their 2021 Private Reserve Chardonnay, sourced from Sta. Rita Hills.
The second was the 2013 Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, sourced from Napa Valley, specifically Rutherford. I was glad to hear that their Oceanside location is pumping out music 7 days a week.
For music fans, check out the calendar and stop by for great music, delicious wines, and food from local restaurants. Additionally, the Coombers are progressing on their new Vista Tasting Room, set to open this summer.
Temecula was also well represented. There was a whole section at the show with over 10 Temecula wineries. We visited one of my favorites at the show, Falkner Winery. We caught up with owners Ray and Loretta Falkner, along with winemaker Duncan Williams.
For Viognier lovers, I recommend Falkner’s Viognier. Also included in their tasting offering were their 2022 Sauvignon Blanc, 2021 Syrah, and one of my favorite Falkner wines, Amante Super Tuscan style wine.
For Amante, Williams blends sangiovese with merlot, cab sauv, and cab franc. The palate has black cherry with strawberry notes and earthy undertones on the finish. When visiting Temecula, Falkner Winery’s Pinnacle Restaurant should be at the top of your list for lunch or dinner.
While in the Temecula section, we also visited the Doffo and Cougar tables. Perhaps one of my best tastings representing Temecula was not the wine but Gina LaMora’s Grazing Theory Lavish Charcuterie. The meats and cheeses served by Gina and co-worker Karyn were heavenly, especially when topped with raw honeycomb and paired with Cougar Wines.
Finally, I must mention a few upper-tier wines I tasted at the Stonestreet Estate Vineyards table. Stonestreet from Alexander Valley is part of the Jackson Family Wines portfolio and is one of the most extensive mountain estates in the world.
Only 900 acres of the total 5,000 acres are planted. Cory Rowin, district manager at Jackson Family Wines, and Chris Cooke, district manager at Regal Wine Co., poured 2019 chardonnay grown at 1,800 feet and 2018 cabernet sauvignon with fruit grown at 2,400 feet down to 800 feet.
Another honorable mention was Ehret Family Winery from Knights Valley. Jason Robinson, Ehret’s director of sales, was pouring three great cabs: the winery’s 2019 cab blend, 2019 Bella’s cabernet sauvignon, which was 97% cab with a splash of merlot (3%), and their 2019 Hillside Reserve Cab, which was 100% cabernet sauvignon. Of the three, the Bella was a great value at $85. The cab is $75, and the reserve is $125.
Great show, Family Winemakers! See more at familywinemakers.org.
— Story by Rico Cassoni
Wine Bytes
The Butcher Shop in San Diego’s Kearny Villa area hosts a Kathryn Hall Dinner at 6 p.m. on Thursday, April 18. Executive chef Brian Gist will serve a dry-aged, cocoa-rubbed New York Strip steak with mushroom risotto and roasted Brussels sprouts as the main course of the five-course dinner. The cost is $120 per person and includes tax/gratuity. RSVP at bit.ly/kat-hall.
Rico Cassoni is the executive producer for Taste of Wine and Food. Founder/advisor Frank Mangio is a renowned wine connoisseur certified by Wine Spectator. Frank and Rico are two of the leading reviewers on the web. View their columns at tasteofwineandfood.com. Reach them at [email protected].
