Some traditions take root naturally, blending friendship, food and fine wine. For Mary and me, one of the highlights of summer is our annual pizza pilgrimage at Casa Cassoni. This year marked the fourth straight celebration, when homemade Neapolitan pizzas fired in my backyard smoker at 900 degrees met the soulful wines of winemaker Keith Rolle of Gianni Buonomo Vintners.
What made this year’s occasion even more meaningful is that the dates were set during our recent visit to GBV’s new Point Loma tasting room, the next chapter for San Diego’s eight-time Best Winery.
Our pizza pilgrimage has grown into a lively gathering. Alongside Keith came his partner, Heidi, and his lifelong friend, wine club manager Al Dorvinen. Keith and Al first met in elementary school in Duluth, Minnesota, grew up playing hockey together, and now work side by side at GBV.
Also joining us were Taste of Wine & Food founder and neighbor Frank Mangio and his wife, Kay, plus our other neighbors Wendy, Chris and Stacey.
The pizzas began with a new dough recipe gifted by mi amico Lenny Ciarmoli’s nephew Mauro — a simple mix of 00 flour, water, salt and yeast. Four pies emerged from the smoker: two classic Margheritas followed by two pepperonis, the last inspired by a vote from the crowd.
Keith, Al and Heidi spoiled us with an impressive lineup. The sneak peek 2022 Tempranillo, sourced from Washington state and aged in American oak, offered aromas of green tea, black plum and dried fig, with subtle vanilla from the oak.
The 2022 Mataro, made with 100% Mourvèdre, showed blackberry, clove and a savory Earl Grey tea note. The 2021 Nebbiolo from the Sierra Foothills, with its brick color and earthy, truffle-like flavors, reminded us why this varietal is treasured in Barolo and Barbaresco.
My personal favorite, the 2020 Charbono, displayed ripe black currant, blackberry and hints of pencil shavings, a layered wine from a varietal planted on only 70 to 80 acres in the U.S. The Charbono is also on our 2025 Top 10 short list.
We finished with the 2021 Lagrein, brooding and full-bodied, its deep notes of ripe black currant alongside dark chocolate and dried rose petal notes were enhanced with a dry, lingering, grippy finish.
As Keith poured, he also shared a side story about his choice to use polymer sugar-cane stoppers for all his wines. Beyond being more environmentally responsible, these stoppers virtually eliminate the 1% to 2% spoilage risk that comes with natural cork, and they can even be customized. It’s a small but telling example of Keith’s attention to detail and willingness to innovate while respecting tradition.
The pilgrimage tradition was planned earlier this summer during Mary’s and my visit to GBV’s new home in Point Loma. For nine years, the winery thrived on Newport Avenue in Ocean Beach, transforming a tired antique store into a hub of community and culture. GBV hosted fundraisers, celebrations and civic events, all while earning international awards and being voted Best San Diego Winery eight years in a row.
Rising rents forced a difficult choice. With the landlord raising rates by 20%, Keith made the bittersweet decision to relocate. The move, just three miles away, has brought fresh opportunity. The new location, near Pechanga Arena, features a 40-foot tasting bar, lounge, warehouse and plenty of parking. Easy access from Interstates 5 and 8 makes visiting a breeze.
During our tour, Keith poured a crisp 2023 Rosato of Cabernet Sauvignon with aromas of ripe watermelon, strawberry and lemon blossom. The 2023 Sauvignon Blanc followed, full-bodied and tropical, bursting with passion fruit, melon and mango.
On the red side, the 2021 Barbera showed ripe strawberry, raspberry and black cherry with bright acidity, while the Nebbiolo offered its signature brick color, earthy depth and savory complexity. His dedication to Italian varietals sets GBV apart, as the only California vintner producing Lagrein, Nebbiolo, Charbono and Barbera under one roof.
The heart of the winery remains its wine club, with three levels — Club Gianni, Fedora Club and Gold Band Club — offering members the flexibility to select their wines with no cost to join.
A gifted hockey player, Keith later turned his athletic energy toward marathons, completing 19 in 19 states, including the 2007 Boston Marathon. After a 35-year break from the ice, he put his running shoes down and laced up his skates again, returning to hockey. Along the way, Keith apprenticed at Long Shadows Vintners in Washington before earning his degree in enology and viticulture, experiences that shaped the winemaker and managing director he is today at GBV.
Alongside him, Al has grown from helping with crush in 2012 to managing the tasting room and wine club. Together with Heidi’s support, they form the team that gives GBV its heart, soul and hospitality.
From Ocean Beach to Point Loma, from community roots to Casa Cassoni traditions, Gianni Buonomo Vintners continues to remind us that wine is best when shared. Whether in the glow of a new tasting room or the fire of a backyard smoker, Keith’s wines embody the warmth of friendship and the spirit of celebration. Get more information at gbvintners.com.
— Story by Rico Cassoni
Wine Bytes
Evans Hotels — Catamaran, Bahia, and The Lodge at Torrey Pines — has a full slate of fall events. Oceana Coastal Kitchen at the Catamaran will host four Chef’s Tables: Sept. 12 (Pure Project Brewery), Sept. 26 (Duckhorn Vineyards), Oct. 10 (DAOU Vineyards) and Oct. 24 (craft cocktails), plus participate in San Diego Restaurant Week, Sept. 14–21. Details at catamaranresort.com/events-calendar. Bahia Resort Hotel will feature Oktoberfest and Halloween cruises. More at bahiahotel.com/events-calendar. The Lodge at Torrey Pines hosts its Artisan Table Wine Dinner Sept. 18 with DAOU’s Patrimony Estates wines. Info at lodgetorreypines.com/events.
Rico Cassoni is executive producer for Taste of Wine and Food. He and founder/advisor Frank Mangio, a renowned wine connoisseur certified by Wine Spectator, are two of the leading reviewers on the web. Reach them at [email protected].
