There are certain words on a restaurant sign that deserve equal billing, and at Cancun Mexican & Seafood in Leucadia, I’m making a case for paying particular attention to the seafood part.
Yes, the burritos and combination plates can make a convincing argument for themselves. But when the Pacific is practically part of the neighborhood, my attention tends to drift toward ceviche, shrimp and fish, and Cancun does them all well.
You’ll find Cancun at 1766 North Coast Highway 101, Suite B, next to the 7-Eleven and Berri Brothers gas station, home of the cheapest gas in coastal North County. It’s a location that might register as a quick food stop before you give the menu a closer look.
That neighborhood connection interests me. Restaurants become part of our routines for all kinds of reasons: convenience, familiarity, a particular craving. Sometimes, though, the routine becomes so established that we stop exploring. We order the same thing before we’ve finished walking through the door. Cancun presents an opportunity to break that habit, especially if your usual order comes wrapped in a flour tortilla.
Let’s start with ceviche.
Of all the ways to build a meal around seafood, ceviche has a particularly strong hold on my attention. There is something about that combination of cool seafood, citrus and contrasting textures that makes sense along this stretch of coast. It fits my description of the perfect lunch, when you want something lively and satisfying without committing to a meal that requires a recovery period, specifically a food coma-induced nap.
Cancun’s ceviche tostada appears among the dishes highlighted in many local reviews and has attracted its own enthusiastic following. A recommendation for an entire restaurant is useful. A recommendation that essentially says, “get the ceviche,” gives you a place to start.
The tostada format adds another dimension. I like food that requires a little strategy, and the tostada that accompanies the ceviche qualifies. Do you commit to the first bite and accept the consequences? Break it into manageable pieces? Keep a fork nearby while pretending you won’t need it? There are several approaches, none particularly elegant, and all part of the pleasure
What I look for in ceviche is balance. Citrus should bring energy without overwhelming the seafood. The various components, especially the delightful avocado slices, remain distinct enough that each bite gives you a reason to take another. The Cancun ceviche experience has become a weekly go-to for me.
Of course, ceviche is only one direction you can take here. The menu that lines the walls lists shrimp prepared with garlic, shrimp a la diabla, breaded shrimp and shrimp fajitas, along with grilled and breaded fish preparations. There are also listings for shrimp cocktail, campechana and seafood soups. That is a substantial invitation to explore beyond the usual taco shop rotation.
Garlic shrimp would be high on my list of follow-up orders. Garlic and seafood have one of those relationships that need very little explanation. When I’m deciding between a preparation built around garlic and one promising serious heat, the decision usually comes down to whether I want to linger comfortably or sweat a bit. The a la diabla option is there for the latter mood.
Fish offers another useful fork in the road. Grilled or breaded? I can make an argument for either, depending on the day. Sometimes I want the directness of grilled fish. Other times, the appeal of a crisp exterior settles the discussion before it begins.
This is where bringing someone with compatible eating habits pays off. Two people ordering thoughtfully can cover considerably more territory than one person making an ambitious promise to themselves. Start with ceviche, choose different seafood dishes and establish sharing rights before the plates arrive. I’m a strong believer in settling that last detail early.
When eating solo, I’ve also created what I consider one of the best surf and turf combos around by combining their very respectable California burrito and ceviche. The key is only eating half of the burrito and saving half for later. I’d say I accomplish that portion control about 50% of the time as the California burrito is right up there with the best on this stretch of Coast Highway.
There is also something appealing about a seafood meal that requires very little ceremony. You don’t always want to turn lunch into an event. Sometimes you want to interrupt your day with something good, have a conversation and return to whatever you were doing feeling slightly better about everything. That is a perfectly respectable dining goal.
For me, the takeaway at Cancun is to explore the entire menu with an emphasis on the seafood. Keep your dependable burrito order in reserve.
I’ve taken to making the Berri Brothers discount gas and Cancun ceviche a combined experience. Fill up your vehicle with the lowest price gas around then pull over to a spot in the lot and walk over to Cancun. They have a comfortable dining room and nice outside patio for people watching. Whatever your strategy, just get there, it’s a good thing.
Cancun Mexican & Seafood is at 1766 North Coast Highway 101, Suite B, in Leucadia. Call 760-633-3333 to confirm current menu offerings and hours.
