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Technical supervisor José Bucio, left, and GM Brittni Wingo demonstrated the taps at Coin Haus with arcade games in the background. Photo by Rico Cassoni
Arts & EntertainmentTaste of Wine

Taste tour of La Mesa

There’s something magic in the way La Mesa flavors your day. Our recent stroll through its village delivered just that. We began with a hoppy twist and ended with dolce dreams, discovering that this East County gem has become a must-visit for savvy food lovers.

Pour, Drink, Play: Coin Haus

We started our journey at Coin Haus, a playful invention by Cohn Restaurant Group (CRG) created in 2016. GM Brittni Wingo and tech supervisor José Bucio guided us through the concept: a cashless adult beverage buffet featuring 48 self-pour taps and an arcade. Guests link a card to their credit account, then pour their own beers, ciders, seltzers, cocktails, wines and sours — touchscreens at each tap displays flavor profiles, prices and tasting notes.

Arcade games, from classics to sit-on-motorcycle rides, cost 2-6 credits (25¢ each), though during happy hours (Monday-Thursday, 4–6 p.m.; Friday-Saturday, 3-6 p.m.; and Sunday, 2-6 p.m) games are free when tapped.

We sipped a locally brewed Coin Haus IPA and Blonde Ale by Tarantula Hill, a lemon-basil cider, Blast of Baja seltzer, Karl Strauss Cherry Cola Seltzer (a standout) and The Bear IPA from Great Notion Brewing. It’s a grown-up playground with a great pour list. Check the latest lineup at coinhaus.com.

Selections from Tour de Tapas, left, and Casa Gabriela in La Mesa Village. Courtesy photos

Euro Vibes at Tour de Tapas

A few minutes’ stroll found us at Gerry Torres’ Tour de Tapas that sits beside his popular City Taco store. Situated in a cozy, brick-walled venue for about 50 guests, it feels like stepping into a rustic European bistro. GM/partner Israel Montaño shared how they sampled over 500 Old World and California wines before narrowing it to 30 thoughtful pairings.

Chef Lalo Baeza, trained in Mexico City with a French twist, constantly evolves the menu, highlighted by rotating tapas of the week and month. We indulged in heirloom caprese over walnut pesto; a saffron-kissed Spanish paella brimming with mussels, clams, shrimp, chicken, scallops and chistorra sausage; a delicate salmon beurre blanc; and a seafood-studded Linguine allo Scoglio, a weekly special.

The wine flight included Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Green Wing Cabernet Sauvignon and Les Jamelles Malbec offering a journey through fruit, spice and structure. It’s perfect for sharing a leisurely evening with friends. Check out their menu at tourdetapas.com.

Elevated Authenticity at Casa Gabriela

Next, we walked to CRG’s Casa Gabriela, aptly named and soulfully crafted by chef/partner Gabriela López. Rooted in her grandmother’s recipes from Guadalajara, the menu is lifted into elegant territory. The space is alive with color, centered on a sprawling Tequila Garden patio that’s dog-friendly and full of character and around the corner from Coin Haus.

GM Carlos Pozos ushered us in, and I started with a Smoky Pepino cocktail (blanco tequila, mezcal, cucumber, mint) that tasted as fresh as it looked. Frank opted for a classic Modelo. The generous Molcajete La Jefa Asado for two (or three or four) arrived — a mosaic of marinated flank, pollo a la brasa, shrimp, sausage, chorizo, panela, nopales, jalapeño and salsa machacada, served with tortillas, rice and beans.

Meats are marinated for 24 hours, a nod to tradition. We also savored the Flank Steak Tampiqueña: chimichurri flank, guajillo-Oaxaca enchilada, roasted peppers, grilled panela, guac and papas bravas. Later, a pair of carnitas tacos appeared — a delightful surprise.

With its authenticity, vibrant courtyard and heart-forward presentation, it’s as good for a casual night out as it is for brunch or celebrations. As their motto says, Casa Gabriela is “Elevated Mexican Cuisine in the Heart of La Mesa.” See more at casagabrielalamesa.com.

House-made dolce at Limoncello in La Mesa, from left, tiramisu Limone, Crème Brulle, Cannoli and Tiramisu. Photo by Rico Cassoni

La Dolce Vita at Limoncello

By now, La Mesa had won our hearts. Limoncello was the perfect ending. Whether seated al fresco or among tapestries and Italian art indoors, the atmosphere is unmistakably authentic — Italian accents float among staff and patrons.

Owner Alberto Morreale and nephew Gaetano Cassara have created an Italian haven where all pasta, entrées and dolce are made in-house. When server Miguel Ansulo presented the dolce tray of cannolis, tiramisu, tiramisu limone and crème brûlée, we thought we’d pick one or two, only to be surprised moments later with all four, plus cappuccinos. Heaven.

At nearby tables, the Chef’s pasta special was in full view: fresh pasta tossed in a 15-month Parmesan cheese wheel where servers used torches to melt cheese and then toss in cream, crab and asparagus for that day’s special. A sight and taste worthy of its own follow-on visit.  Limoncello is a journey through Italy’s finest flavors, see more at limoncellolamesa.com.

Final Taste: La Mesa Village

La Mesa Village is a treasure trove — livable, walkable and easily reachable via the San Diego Trolley’s Orange Line, making it a car-free trip from many parts of the county. Or, take advantage of 75 cents-per-hour street parking. It’s also home to one of San Diego’s largest Oktoberfests, a three-day Bavarian celebration that draws thousands each fall.

— Story by Rico Cassoni

Rico Cassoni is executive producer for Taste of Wine and Food.  He and founder/advisor Frank Mangio, a renowned wine connoisseur certified by Wine Spectator, are two of the leading reviewers on the web.  Reach them at [email protected].                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            

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