Encinitas is home to many fantastic dining destinations, but none quite like Herb & Sea. Blending classic East Coast culinary traditions with a modern Californian sensibility, this restaurant is chef Brian Malarkey and Chris Puffer’s coastal companion to the acclaimed Herb & Wood in Little Italy.
Malarkey is a nationally recognized chef who has created 15 successful restaurants, including Herb & Wood and Animae. Known for his appearances on “Top Chef: All-Stars” and “Guy’s Grocery Games,” Malarkey brings expertise and creativity to all his projects. Since opening in November 2019, just before the pandemic, Herb & Sea has established itself as one of the most sought-after reservations in town.
When Frank and I arrived on a Wednesday evening, the energy was electric, with a line of eager diners already forming at the door before opening. By 6:30 p.m., the restaurant was buzzing, nearly at capacity. Upon entering, we were greeted by the enticing aromas of wood-fired meats and seafood and the warm glow of art deco-inspired decor.
Executive Chef Aidan Owens, an Australian native, oversees the Herb & Sea kitchen. Growing up on a farm near Byron Bay, Owens developed a passion for fresh, seasonal ingredients and international flavors.
At Herb & Sea, he masterfully blends Mediterranean influences with local California produce and seafood, working closely with purveyors like Dassi Farms and fisherman John Law. Owens changes the menu seasonally, ensuring each dish reflects the best of what’s fresh and available.
San Diego native Luke Ruiz, Herb & Sea’s general manager since 2021, brings a decade of hospitality experience to the restaurant. Our server, Andrea Carreno, was exceptional. Warm, vibrant and knowledgeable, Andrea walked us through the menu, shared insights into the restaurant’s fresh-squeezed cocktail philosophy and made stellar recommendations throughout the evening.
Owens created an exceptional lineup of starters that showcased his knack for balancing bold and nuanced flavors. The Sumac Tomatoes were a standout, featuring muhammara, Mediterranean herbs, sumac vinaigrette and sesame crunch that delivered bright, zesty notes in every bite. The Beef Carpaccio paired razor-thin cut, tender filet mignon with a caramelized onion dip, arugula and a caprese vinaigrette, creating a harmonious blend of textures and flavors.
The hoecake and caviar were a delightful balance of savory and sweet, combining smoked striped sea bass rillette with brown butter corn cake and honey butter drizzle. Lastly, the lamb meatballs, with cucumber tabbouleh, zhug and pomegranate, packed bold Mediterranean flavors that left a lasting impression.
Frank paired his starters with a glass of Jordan Chardonnay, a classic white wine that complemented the vibrant flavors. I enjoyed the Little Stickler, a bold cocktail with three chili-infused Santo tequila, prickly pear, lime and Tajín, before trying the H&S Old Fashioned, a modern take on the classic featuring bourbon, amaro lucano, cynar, honey and an orange twist.
The entrées at Herb & Sea were extraordinary, with each dish showcasing impeccable technique and bold flavors. The Seared Local Halibut, sourced from Law, featured a golden crust that gave way to tender, flaky fish. Served with toasted orzo chorizo risotto, braised fennel and Sungold tomatoes, the dish was an exquisite balance of richness and depth.
The Grilled Local Swordfish, sourced from Andrew Hemstreet, was tender and succulent. Smoked jalapeño yogurt lent a creamy, spicy undertone, while sumac onion and Granny Smith apple added fresh, tangy notes that elevated the dish.
The Grilled Half Peri Peri Chicken, featuring Mary’s organic chicken, brought bold, spicy flavors to the table. The ruby agrodolce provided a tangy glaze, while toum and Moroccan herbs added depth to this perfectly grilled dish. The Embered Beets cooked in coals also stood out with their smoky, caramelized sweetness complemented with pistachio butter, date vinaigrette, pickled onions and crispy shallots.
We paired our entrees with Paso Robles Niner Cabernet Sauvignon. The richness of the entrées was perfectly balanced by the wine’s structured profile.
Andrea encouraged us to try the Carajillo, an off-the-menu Mexican-inspired after-dinner cocktail made with Licor 43 and fresh orange zest. This rich, aromatic drink was the perfect match for Herb & Sea’s exceptional desserts.
The Date Cake, served with butterscotch sauce and candied walnut and hazelnut gelato, was instantly my favorite, combining warm, comforting flavors with a touch of elegance. The Chocolate Mousse Pie, featuring a candied pistachio brownie base and pistachio ice cream, was a chocoholic’s dream. While I’m typically partial to chocolate, the Date Cake slightly edged out as the star of the dessert course.
Herb & Sea’s Happy Hour is Tuesday to Friday, from 5 to 6 p.m. Guests can even make reservations, a rare convenience for happy hour. A favorite is the Happy Meal, which includes a smash burger, three West Coast oysters, crispy frites and a glass of Prosecco for just $20. It’s a deal that feels too good to be true and a perfect excuse to stop by after work.
Frank and I were wowed by our visit to Herb & Sea. Chef Aidan Owens creates dishes that are fresh, inventive and comforting. His talent is undeniable! I would not be surprised to see him earn a Michelin star one day. Pair that with Luke Ruiz’s warm, welcoming leadership and Andrea Carreno’s top-notch service, and you’ve got an experience that’s second to none.
Herb & Sea isn’t just a restaurant, it’s a place where every detail from the food to the drinks to the hospitality comes together perfectly. If you are looking for a dining experience that’s as vibrant as it is delicious, Herb & Sea is a must-visit destination.
More at herbandsea.com.
— Story by Rico Cassoni
Rico Cassoni is executive producer for Taste of Wine and Food. He and founder/advisor Frank Mangio, a renowned wine connoisseur certified by Wine Spectator, are two of the leading reviewers on the web. Reach them at [email protected].
