The burgeoning Solana Beach restaurant scene added another winner recently with the opening of CTZN, joining Rustic Root, Lana and more on a vibrant stretch of Coast Highway 101 in the mixed-use Sandbox building.
CTZN could be described as a modern Basque tapas bar, owned and operated by siblings Willy Wu Jye and Karine Beers, whose love for their time spent in the Basque Country inspired them to bring that culture and cuisine to Solana Beach. The siblings are from Madagascar and came to San Diego to study, and, like most of us, ended up falling in love with the area.
Ten years ago, they opened La Clochette Cafe, a coffee shop in La Jolla, and recently added a second location in Mission Valley. CTZN is their most ambitious effort to date, and if the early full houses are any indication, they are on to something that North County coastal folks can relate to and embrace. In the tradition of the Basque region, food is meant to be shared, celebrated and enjoyed with a group — bringing people together around the table to celebrate food and friends.
The Basque region that straddles southwest France and northern Spain is home to world-class gastronomy (pintxos, Michelin stars), renowned architecture like the Guggenheim Bilbao, amazing coastal scenery and beaches… including some decent surf in Biarritz that I’ve had the good fortune to partake in.
Chef Juan Gonzalez has developed a menu that stays true to Basque cooking while adding a modern edge. He achieves that by taking time-honored Basque techniques and reimagining them with California creativity. Each dish and drink can tell a story about the region and take you on a culinary adventure through the Basque Country. I found that portion of the experience fascinating.
The menu starts with Pintxos, the Basque equivalent of tapas. These bite-sized treats are the heart of the Basque bar culture. Smoked fish, slow-cooked meats, vibrant veggies…all beautifully presented.
Raciones are next, and these shareable dishes are great for mixing and matching to build your own spread, perfect for a table that loves sharing small plates. Seafood, veg or house specials looked amazing. Some that caught my eye were the Bluefin Tartar, Wood-Fired Squid, Pulpo, Avocado and Talo, and the Patatas Bravas, which is always an economical and tasty addition to a meal.
The Charcuteria is where things really start to get sexy. Is there anything better than paper-thin slices of Jamón Iberico, spicy Chorizo and buttery Lomo, all expertly paired with good bread and wine? Many of these dishes are carved by the chef in full view.
A cocktail was in order to begin the festivities, and the talented bar mixed a delightful Aizakorri Breeze. Can’t recall what was in it, but it sure was pretty and tasty, and I’m assuming it was named after the descriptions of hiking conditions in the Aizkorri-Aratz Natural Park in Spain.
I started the meal with the Croquetas de Pollo with pickled cucumber aioli and Mary’s Chicken and the Cana de Cabra Toast. Cana de Cabra is a creamy, mild, soft-ripened Spanish goat cheese from the Murcia region, known for its bloomy white rind and buttery texture. The fig and honey on the toast complemented it perfectly.
Paellas shine at CTZN, and I was very excited to partake in their slow celebration of crisp-bottomed rice, rich broth and a crown of fresh catch. I went for the Lobster Paella, and the style they serve is called señoret paella. The entrails of all the shells are removed beforehand, making it easier and cleaner to enjoy while preserving the full depth of flavor. It consists of local spiny lobster, firewood-roasted snapper, scallops, mussels, lemon vinaigrette and lemon aioli. The local spiny lobster is fully shelled, then slowly cooked over white and red oak embers, and oh my is it amazing. I should note that it paired perfectly with their Jeremy Mourat Collection Blanc Blend wine.
The Platos Fuertes are the next stop on this menu adventure. These hearty mains include a Wood-Fired NY Strip Steak, Roasted Half Chicken, Amber-Grilled Pork Secreto, Trucha a la Navarra (seared California trout), and Wood-Fired Lamb Chops. I will be making return visits to sample every one of these stellar entrees.
Dessert exceeded expectations as well, with tastes of both the Seasonal Tart and Basque Cheesecake, making me very happy.
In a world of restaurants that blend together in their offerings, CTZN is a breath of uniqueness and originality, definitely worth exploring. Be it popping in for a glass of wine and tapas or a full-blown meal, CTZN should definitely be on your list.
Find them at 343 S. Highway 101, Solana Beach or www.ctzn-sd.com.
