Ancient Peaks Winery owner Karl Wittstrom is guiding his truck up, up, up a rocky, bone-jolting dirt road bordered by manzanita, white sage and coast oaks. The dusty path takes us to the top of an unnamed mountain that is the inspiration for the name of his winery.
For three days, we will explore the Paso Robles American Viticultural Area, about a four-and-a-half-hour drive from North County.
The thermometer registers 102, so we are grateful for the air-conditioned cab, and it’s difficult to imagine that Wittstrom’s 14.000-acre Santa Margarita Ranch is normally the coolest and wettest spot in this AVA.
“We get up to 100 inches of rain a year,” he says.
At the 2,500-foot summit, we survey the expansive view, land once inhabited by Chumash and Salinan Indians as early as 10,000 years ago. Today, 1,000 of the ranch’s acres are a patchwork of 16 varieties of grapes grown sustainably in five types of soil, thanks to long-ago geological activity.
Coming down the mountain, a young, wild pig and her eight or 10 black piglets dash in the other direction. They are cute and quick and popular with visitors, but according to Wittstrom, a nuisance population that has gotten out of control. They damage vineyards, orchards, irrigation systems and can spread disease.
Wittstrom and two partner families — the Filipponis and Rossis — bought this former Robert Mondavi property in 2005.
“Doug (Filipponi) and I both grew up in the area and farming is something we both love,” Wittstrom says over a perfect hot-weather lunch of butter lettuce, marinated chicken breast and smoky balsamic vinaigrette. The pairing: a crisp, chilled Ancient Peaks Sauvignon Blanc.
“But farming is fickle and the wine industry is always changing — like jeans. One year it’s bellbottoms, the next year it’s skinny jeans. Now bellbottoms are back.”
Which is to say that tastes change, and that goes for wine too. Sales are down recently, and reasons cited are an over-saturated market, health concerns, and preferences of millennials and Gen Zers. They drink less or no alcohol, or conversely, favor cocktails or legalized marijuana. Surveys also indicate that these demographics perceive wine to be complicated and stodgy.
To help reverse the trend, 20 Paso Robles wineries formed the CAB Collective to promote cabernet sauvignon and red Bordeaux varietals, and created a midweek experience called the CAB Trail. Come to Paso midweek, stay at the Allegretto Vineyard Resort, and enjoy free wine-tastings or charcuterie boards at the member wineries.
“The program offers an … insider look at Paso Robles’ celebrated vineyards and hospitality, while encouraging guests to explore beyond the weekend rush,” says Linda Sanpei, collective spokesperson.
Some wineries also have diversified; they offer experiences like Ancient Peaks’ zip lining, e-bike tours, guided nature and foraging hikes (think pine nuts and chanterelle mushrooms), and horseback riding.
“We are trying to develop programs that showcase the ranch,” Wittstrom says.
At Castoro Cellars, visitors can sample zinfandel, pinot noir and pinot grigio, catch some live music, and take e-bike tours and play disc golf among the vines.
Castoro’s self-appointed historian Sherry Sweeney, who holds court in the tasting room, gives lessons in the area’s geological history and the petrified whale vertebrae that line the windowsill.
Back at the Allegretto, guests can wander the grounds and see the vast art collection of owner Douglas Ayres. Docent Karyl Lammers conducts thrice-weekly tours and relates how Ayres sought and found peace after the death of his teenage son. This quest influenced the design and construction of the hotel inside and out.
For quiet moments, the resort offers a chapel; a Star Garden Trail that features 12 stations, each representing a constellation of the Zodiac; and a motion-activated Sonic Labyrinth Sound Circle. Walk through the circle and hear soft, hypnotic tones that change with your position.
Resort guests also can stroll through some of Allegretto’s 20 acres of vineyards, cultivated organically using regenerative farming practices.
At day’s end, Allegretto guests can descend the hotel’s double winding staircase to the upscale-but-casual Cello Ristorante & Bar for perfectly prepared Mediterranean and Italian fare. There are daily specials, like Chef Gregg Denter’s Italian sushi — delectable rolls of prosciutto, goat cheese, figs and a luscious balsamic vinaigrette.
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