The fourth Del Mar Wine & Food Festival brought plentiful sunshine, distinguished wines and serious culinary talent to Surf Sports Park. Hosted by Troy Johnson with partners Drew Brees, Alex Morgan and Rob Machado, the festival demonstrated that food needs not take a back seat to wine at tasting events.
Michelin-recognized chefs included Eric Bost, who oversees one-star Jeune et Jolie and Lilo, as well as Campfire and Wildland, all in Carlsbad, and Drew Deckman. San Diego celebrity chefs Brian Malarkey, Lauren Lawless, Alex Carballo and Claudia Sandoval added hometown star power.
Waverly Executive Chef Brian Redzikowski opened the day on a playful note with a McGriddle Funfetti pancake. Nearby, I visited Chef Luis Esteva of Dora Ristorante and Cohn Restaurant Group Operations Manager Deborah Lamoureux at the 333 Pacific booth.
I also caught up with Feeding San Diego CEO Bob Kamensky. Bob and I share a bond extending beyond food and wine: we served together in the submarine Navy. Feeding San Diego was the festival’s charitable beneficiary. Together, the early bites and reunion made for a memorable start to the day.
A trio of friends radiating what DMWFF is all about — sun, wine, food and friendship — crossed my path en route to the Brandt Beef area, prompting me to stop and capture the moment in a photo.
A line quickly formed at Tanner’s Prime Burgers with good reason. Their incredibly juicy prime beef burgers and tallow fries were both the bomb. Director of business development Mark Yi, bartender Sam Aguilar and their team stayed busy serving guests. Tanner’s is on our TOWAF short list.
Nearby, Bangers BBQ offered a preview of the fast-casual barbecue and music venue replacing Bellamy’s in Escondido. Executive Chef and pitmaster Drew Bent and Grand Restaurant Group (GRG) beverage manager Sean Ward shared their enthusiasm for the transition, expected to be completed in early 2027. Until then, Bangers will hold pop-ups at Bellamy’s.
Next, we stopped at Burtech Family Vineyard to visit owner Dominic Burtech, Maile Burtech and special events coordinator Sara Swerdlin. They poured refreshing Maile Rosé, Syrah and Bordeaux varietals. Swerdlin also shared that Burtech’s new Sonoma winery in Kenwood is expected to open in a few weeks.
At the NOMADA booth, GRG Chef Partner Alex Carballo prepared duck mole tacos. His thick, rich mole elevated the tender duck beautifully. NOMADA was Carballo’s first GRG restaurant transformation, and his plate remains full. Pun intended! Beyond Bangers, he is leading a major renovation and menu refresh at Nick & G’s in Rancho Santa Fe launching in November.
Festival guests outside VIP had an opportunity to explore leading Paso Robles wineries and top wines. Daou occupied a prominent standalone area, where Eryn Schnitzler, Southern California business development manager, joined by Allison S. and Belley Abrazam, poured Sauvignon Blanc, Rosé, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Reserve Cab Sauv.
Hope Family Wines national brand ambassador CJ Gormley poured Graciano, Cabernet Franc, flagship Austin Hope Cabernet Sauvignon and the lively Troublemaker Grenache Spritz. TOWAF colleague Steve Dafnis and I met mother-daughter duo Patti Zimmer and Lindsey Sloan while enjoying the booth.
Niner Wine Estates president Andy Niner and his wife, Katie, paired sourdough with winery-made spreads as Andy poured wines culminating in the outstanding 2018 Fog Catcher. Making premium Paso producers accessible throughout the festival allowed more guests to discover what makes the region special.
Other savory stops included Amalfi Cucina, where Gil Perales, Paige Corwin, Reagan Seamon and Sous Chef Antonio Mastache dazzled with pizzas. MSG Hospitality Group chef-owner Ethan Yang served shiitake risotto with black pepper beef at Glass Box alongside MSG’s Zen Modern Asian Bistro booth, the restaurant where his father leads the kitchen.
Inside the VIP tent, Ruffino North America brand ambassador Caterina Corvino Velez served an impressive Italian lineup with Lisa Hickson and Ariana Salazar. Highlights included Riserva Ducale Chianti Classico, Greppone Mazzi Brunello di Montalcino, Modus Primo and Garzaia, Ruffino’s first Bolgheri Superiore, a Cabernet Franc and Merlot blend introduced this year.
Newly opened Mia’s Mexican-Mediterranean restaurant reinforced its growing reputation with ahi carpaccio, Mexican street corn (esquites), and cucumber-kiwi agua chile margaritas from Executive Chef Michael Padilla, General Manager Scott Buchan and Sous Chef Luis Batista. I also visited Juniper & Ivy Executive Chef Alex Penkin and Chef de Cuisine Khine Moore. TOWAF reviews of both restaurants are ahead.
My final winery stop delivered a lasting memory. Chateau Montelena hospitality manager Sheri Bowen presented me with a commemorative gold coin that immediately joined my media lanyard. She and national sales director Tucker Spear poured a Cabernet Sauvignon mini vertical before Bowen opened the 2023 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, awarded 100 points by Decanter and among my top wines of the festival.
The day concluded with Bost’s flavorful yellowtail crudo layered with yellow pepper, Asian pear and marigold, alongside Wildland’s pasta with stracciatella “a mano” cheese, confit and smoked tomatoes, honey vinegar, summer herbs and pine nuts.
From Paso flagships and Ruffino reds to Redzikowski’s pancake and Bost’s crudo, DMWFF gave food and wine equal billing while celebrating the personalities driving our wine and culinary communities. Johnson and his partners have created a sun-splashed showcase of why Southern California remains such an exciting place to dine and sip.
— Rico Cassoni
Wine Bytes
West End Bar & Kitchen presents a five-course Catena Wines wine dinner Thursday, Oct. 22. The centerpiece pairs Fire-Grilled Prime New York Strip with Malbec Nicasia. Catena’s South American wine ambassador, Andii Ulrich, will narrate the dinner. Doors open at 5:30 p.m., with dinner at 6 p.m. Tickets are $135 per person, including tax and gratuity. RSVP at westenddelmar.com.
Rico Cassoni is executive producer of Taste of Wine and Food. He and founder/advisor Frank Mangio, a renowned wine connoisseur certified by Wine Spectator, are two of the leading reviewers on the web. Reach them at [email protected].
