I’ll begin this love letter to 24 Suns by stating that there are far more than 10 reasons to get there ASAP, but for the sake of word counts and such, I’ll highlight some that stood out.
First, when I noticed the Oceanside location, I assumed it was somewhere coastal. I was pleasantly surprised to find that it was a few miles inland in a strip mall on Mission Avenue. It’s exactly one mile from my office warehouse in a light industrial, decidedly untrendy part of Oceanside, and it was probably a smart decision from a cost perspective for the young team heading this exciting endeavor.
That segues smoothly into my next point of adoration: the team behind 24 Suns. It’s comprised of former Addison chefs Nic Webber and Jacob Jordan, along with General Manager Kyle South, a seasoned wine expert and former lead sommelier at Addison. That is some serious talent behind 24 Suns and one of the primary reasons to visit this place.
Speaking of the name and concept, it’s a fascinating one for this visionary Chinese-influenced restaurant. It’s rooted in the philosophy of the 24 solar terms, blending ancient Chinese traditions with modern innovation. It features dishes steeped in history yet presented with a creative twist, and that is reason number three.
I’m going with the transformation of the interior space at 24 Suns as reason number four. You may remember Irina’s from a past Lick the Plate column. Well, they have completely renovated the interior and made it their own. The new interior draws inspiration from cultural motifs and symbolism, blending modern elegance with deep-rooted Chinese heritage.
Highlights include a ruby-red vertical tile bar with a polished stone countertop, custom-built booths and an open kitchen window showcasing the culinary team’s artistry. A new lounge area with plush seating offers a cozy spot for cocktails.
Any restaurant whose menu rotates every two weeks is seriously trying to innovate and provide customers a unique and fresh experience. That’s exactly what the team at 24 Suns is doing, and that means you should regularly check their website to see what’s new. This level of culinary innovation and effort makes for a solid number five on my list.
I have to give some more love to GM and former Addison sommelier South as reason number six. This Taos, New Mexico, native has an impressive background and deep understanding of hospitality and beverage curation. His wine and sake lists are modest yet elegant, and his suggestion of the Stift Göttweig Austrian Grüner Veltliner was perfect and made me smile, given my recent Grüner obsession. He was welcoming, fun and charming, further elevating the experience.
The elegant-without-the-attitude vibe that prevails at 24 Suns, which aims to create a Michelin-level dining experience, is my number seven. A team with this caliber of talent could easily intimidate, but instead, it has created a world-class dining experience in a modest location that welcomes everyone.
I did not see an ounce of trendy, no servers in ironic T-shirts featuring retro rock stars or a DJ distracting with thumping beats. All that would take away from the food, and that’s the star at this restaurant, and what creates longevity in this business.
If you don’t mind, I will lump together reasons seven through 10 as they pertain to our dining experience. I think that warrants a big part of my Lick the Plate love for 24 Suns.
The meal started with a very classy move that brought back memories of being upgraded to first class on Delta and receiving a warm washcloth to start meal service — and has since been discontinued. In this case, a copper bowl was presented with a tightly wrapped small towel in warm water. It goes back to when everyone was required to wash their hands in a large copper basin before entering an imperial palace for a feast.
To kick things off, we went with the one-of-a-kind Bird’s Nest, a literal nest made from Kataifi, a Middle Eastern dough sliced uber-thin and crispy to form a nest for a smoked swordfish rillette with green Sichuan, cilantro and roe — a first for me and a flavor and texture explosion of goodness.
The Sichuan Dry Aged Toro Crudo with mala chili oil, peppers and gooseberry was also world-class. As you may be aware, toro is tuna belly, and when prepared correctly, it melts in your mouth. The foam that provided the bed was definitely lick-the-plate worthy.
My culinary education was furthered when I learned that jiaozi is a traditional Chinese dumpling. When served with doubanjiang butter, scallops, shrimp, and charred pineapple, these dumplings are elevated to a higher level.
My bonus reasons are the Brown Butter Fried Jidori Chicken, Snake River Farms Wagyu, Five Regions Half Duck, and Wok’d Local Greens. But honestly, the entire menu looked spectacular.
24 Suns is worth checking out. Please note hours and menu updates at www.24sunsdining.com and find them at 3375 Mission Avenue, Oceanside.
