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A meatball sandwich at East Coast Pizza in the Seaside Market Plaza. Photo courtesy East Coast Pizza
A meatball sandwich at East Coast Pizza in the Seaside Market Plaza. Photo courtesy East Coast Pizza
ColumnsFood & WineLick the Plate

The joy of a meatball sandwich

First off, let’s clarify that the term sandwich is used as a general describer and could include sub, hero, grinder or hoagie, depending on the region of the country you come from.

I’ll also point out that the meatball sandwich is a purely American invention with roots going back to the early 1900s on the East Coast, where, of course, there are very strong opinions on what region does them best.

I’ve been a massive fan of them forever, and at least once a year dive into making a big batch of homemade meatballs and a day-long red sauce — think Ray Liotta in Goodfella’s reminding his family to “tell Michael not to let the sauce stick, keep stirring it,” as he his life begins to spiral out of control. In certain northeast regions, Italian Americans call red sauce “gravy.”

Recently, I popped into East Coast Pizza in the Seaside Market Plaza for a quick slice but saw a customer in what seemed like an eye-rolling bliss induced by one of their beautiful meatball parmigiana sandwiches. I also discovered that they make their own meatballs, a step that most similar size operations don’t take, adding immediate credibility to this fast-paced eatery.

I quickly added one to my menu, knowing that by the time I devoured my slice and drove home, it would be a perfect temperature. I should note that I always order them with extra cheese and cooked well done for that extra crisp bun texture.

I’ve always enjoyed meatball sandwiches cold the next day as well. It accompanies the cold pizza, lasagna, and spaghetti that many of us appreciate.

My East Coast Pizza meatball sandwich experience got me thinking about the plethora of solid options we have in North County, so I got to putting together a list of those I’ve experienced and some new ones from friends I trust on the topic, most of whom have New York or New Jersey roots. I do take those folks to be authorities on the subject.

Bongiornos in Solana Beach does them right, along with a full menu of Italian American delights. Crust, also in Solana Beach, also makes their own meatballs and, to my surprise, does an excellent Chicago Italian Beef…but that’s a whole other column.

I’ve raved about the meatball sub at Moto Deli before, and I will continue to keep them on my preferred list. Their sister restaurant Corner Pizza up the street in Leucadia offers meatballs, but no sub roll, just some bread on the side that you can concoct a sloppy sandwich. I’ve discovered a simple workaround, bring your own buns….BYOB, so to speak.

Don’t be super obvious about it, but I’ve not gotten any pushback from the staff. If Just Peachy is still open, they have a decent selection if you need a bun in a pinch. If you want to make it great, order an extra side of sauce.

Rosatti’s, Rosanna’s, Alices and Borrelli’s on El Camino Real in Encinitas are all solid meatball sandwich options that should be included in your quest. A bonus at Borrelli’s is their Veal Parm sub which is a rare find in these parts, and a good split with a friend, combine it with a meatball sub and enjoy half of each.

A few that I’ve not experienced but come highly recommended are American Heroes and Brew and Primo, both in Carlsbad. American Heroes and Brew has regional sandwiches that are new to me but worth exploring.

Oceanside meatball offerings include Grazianos, Spiritos, Big Bobs, and Frazier Farms, whose deli/sandwich counter is as good as it gets in North County.

And while I’m sure the big chains like Subway can all suffice in a pinch, they really can’t be included in this list as a big part of the joy of a meatball sandwich comes from the personality of the joint making it. Independent, family-run restaurants are the backbone of this category and should be supported.

If you want to give this a shot at home, it’s not that difficult. There are hundreds of recipes out there but use, at the very least, a pork/beef blend. To get authentic, include some ground veal in your mix. That trio will produce the desired consistency.

And make it the fattiest blend possible, please.

Meatballs are not supposed to be lean. Make your own sauce and let it simmer all day, filling your home with an aroma that will make the experience even better. Get some quality buns, mozzarella or provolone cheese, and put your spin on it. Meatballs freeze well, so it makes sense to whip up a large batch for future use.

My go-to beverage with a meatball sandwich has always been an ice-cold Mexican Coke, but any soda or simple red Italian wine will do the job. And please, try them cold the following day…you might be surprised.

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