“From the creation of the world the invisible things of Him are clearly seen, being understood through the things that are made.”
— Romans 1:20
There is a long-lasting debate about whether surfing is spiritual. My opinion is that riding a wave is not exactly spiritual in itself, but that being in the ocean for extended periods points in the direction of a creator.
Of course, there are lifelong surfers who believe differently, thinking that the creatures in the lineup — including themselves and the pod of dolphins that caught the best set waves — created themselves from nothing billions of years ago.
While I am solid in my Christian beliefs, I am not going to argue for them in particular, or theism in general, at this time. The ocean does a pretty good job of that on its own.
In my 60-some years as a surfer, I have mingled with New Agers, Hindus, Buddhists, Muslims, Jews, Baha’is, atheists and Christians. Having wandered from my Catholic faith in my early teens, I began a journey that first led me into Eastern mysticism.
From there, I studied New Age beliefs and the Baha’i Faith. I read the required books, meditated, chanted and attended various lectures before settling on a conservative version of biblical Christianity. But my conversion has not distanced me from my many friends who profess other faiths, or no faith at all.
If anything, it has strengthened our bonds, as we often discuss our beliefs, or lack of them, for hours at a time. Rarely, in my experience, have these discussions erupted into raised voices. When they have, the loudest among them is often mine, something for which I now apologize.
Famous Christian surfers include Tom Curren, Chris O’Rourke, Joey Buran, Damian and C.J. Hobgood, and Filipe Toledo. Less famous is my close friend, filmmaker Eddie Feuer. Feuer, as you may recall, wrote, directed and produced a film called “Changes” in 1999. The film focused on stories of surfers who encountered God on their aquatic journeys.
After 27 years, Eddie has again taken on the monumental task of producing a surf film. “Changes 2” features many insightful interviews while employing footage from various filmmakers, including Feuer’s close friend, Pipeline resident, raconteur and brilliant filmmaker Peter King. As such, this is a solid action surf film, guaranteed not to disappoint even the most hardcore gremmie among us.
Beyond the action is the message of various world-class surfers, shapers and photographers, including Filipe Toledo, Bethany Hamilton, Erin Brooks, Reef Hazelwood, Aaron Chang and Eric Arakawa.
Seekers, skeptics, saints and sinners are welcome to view “Changes 2” on Friday, July 17, at 7 p.m. at North Coast Calvary Chapel, 1330 Poinsettia Lane, Carlsbad. Admission is free. Hit me up afterward to discuss God, waves and all things of interest to us water babies.
