Seeing Cakebread Cellars featured on the wine dinner lineup at Sal Ercolano’s The Butcher Shop filled me with anticipation. Not only is Cakebread a fantastic value among Napa Valley wineries, but the culinary artistry of executive chef Brian Gist also assured a treat for guests.
John Parker, senior sales manager at Republic National Distributing Company, further elevated the evening, adding to a perfect combination of wine, cuisine and narration.
In 1972, during a photography session for Nathan Chroman’s “Treasury of American Wines,” Jack and Dolores Cakebread unexpectedly acquired the Sturdivant Ranch in Rutherford, leading to the planting of the first Cakebread sauvignon blanc on AXR1 rootstock.
“Over time, Cakebread has become Napa Valley’s top sauvignon blanc producer,” Parker said.
By 1974, the initial winery was established after two years of part-time work and marked the release of their first wine, a 1973 Chardonnay. Son, Bruce Cakebread, became a full-time winemaker in 1979 after graduating from UC Davis. In 1986, Bruce’s brother, Dennis, joined the winery and was responsible for finance, sales, and marketing.
Land acquisitions expanded over the years, resulting in 1600 acres with 600 acres planted. Dennis and Bruce Cakebread are board members, with Dennis as the chairman.
Niki Williams recently took over winemaking duties from Cakebread’s former winemaker Stephanie Jacobs. Williams’ resume includes over a decade of experience from some of Napa Valley’s most well-known wine estates, including Mount Veeder Winery, The Prisoner Wine Company, and Chateau St. Jean. This year heralds the golden jubilee of Cakebread’s illustrious legacy, a testament to five decades of unwavering excellence.
Gist displayed his culinary creativity for the first course with charred romaine hearts, fresh pears, goat cheese, and citrus vinaigrette, paired with Cakebread’s 2022 Sauvignon Blanc.
This sauvignon blanc, a blend of their North Coast vineyard grapes with splashes of semillon and sauvignon musque, boasted a citrusy aroma of grapefruit and melon, a green pear palate, and invigorating minerality, forming a delightful congruence with the dish’s citrus vinaigrette.
The second course featured lobster ravioli in lemon rind-infused brown butter sauce, perfectly complemented by the 2021 Napa Valley Chardonnay (100%), aged in French oak with a touch of new oak and malolactic fermentation.
The chardonnay’s full mouthfeel, balanced acidity, and lemon notes harmonized with the butter sauce. The third course was crispy pork belly over creamy polenta with a raspberry gastrique, served with the 2021 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir (100%), with its ripe strawberry, red raspberry, and cherry flavors that beautifully matched the gastrique. A John Parker surprise came from a 2020 Chardonnay Reserve tasting during the pork belly course. The reserve chardonnay’s apple, pear, and vanilla notes also melded well with the pork’s caramelized elements.
Gist again demonstrated his creativity in the main course with a twist on the classic beef Wellington, presenting a venison version, a rich demi-glace sauce, and roasted asparagus. This was accompanied by 2018 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon blended with merlot and petit Verdot along with splashes of syrah, malbec, cab franc, and petite sirah, boasting blackberry, boysenberry, and chocolate aromas.
The cab’s dark fruit and velvety tannins beautifully complemented the gaminess of the venison, enhanced by 17 months of aging in 55% new French oak, which added complexity with optimal elegance.
For dessert, Gist indulged guests with his dark chocolate ganache, vanilla bean gelato, almond brittle, and blackberry compote masterpiece paired with the 2018 Mullan Road Cellars Columbia Valley Cab Sauv. Mullan Road Cellars was founded by Dennis Cakebread in 2012 when he embarked on a mission to make world-class Washington state wine.
Aged for 20 months in a blend of American and French oak (38% new oak), the Mullan Cab Sauv featured opulent black fruit, notes of black tea and black currant, harmonizing with the dessert ensemble. Learn more at cakebread.com.
— Story by Rico Cassoni
Wine Bytes
Join history in the making from Sept. 6-11 at the Del Mar Wine and Food Festival’s inaugural event. San Diego native and renowned Food Network personality Troy Johnson, known for appearing on shows such as Guy’s Grocery Games, Iron Chef, and more, will host the event, guiding you to delectable wine, cuisine, and lively celebrations.
Event partners include San Diego Wave, US women’s soccer star Alex Morgan, former NFL superstar Drew Brees, and surf legend Rob Machado. A significant partnership has been formed with Feeding San Diego, an organization dedicated to rescuing and distributing surplus food to combat hunger. Donations from the festival will support their vital work. Don’t miss the Grand Tasting Days on September 9 and 10 at Surf Sports Park (formerly Del Mar Polo Fields) and other dinner events featuring local celebrity chefs such as Brian Malarkey and Richard Blais. Secure your tickets at delmar.wine/tickets, including Grand Tasting early bird pricing through Aug 31.
Rico Cassoni is the executive producer for Taste of Wine and Food. Founder/Advisor Frank Mangio is a renowned wine connoisseur certified by Wine Spectator. Frank and Rico are two of the leading reviewers on the web. View their columns at tasteofwineandfood.com. Reach them at [email protected].
