Forty-five minutes out of Edmonds, Washington, heading south on the Puget Sound Express catamaran Swiftsure, we spot them — the unmistakable dorsal fins of three orcas. Our onboard marine specialist, Kyla, is well acquainted with these orcas, often called killer whales but actually members of the dolphin family. She introduces us to mother Nootka (59 years old) and her two adult sons, Galiano (29) and Spouter (23) — the T-19 family.
“Male whales are real mammoni (Italian for “mama’s boys”) because they stay with their mothers until they are in their late 20s,” Kyla says. “Mom does most of the hunting, so why leave home when you get free meals?”
Female orcas, however, leave much sooner.
The orcas surface again and again, at one point coming close to our boat. It is a thrill to see these sleek, highly intelligent mammals whose numbers are decreasing because of water and noise pollution, increased boat traffic and decreased food supply. (Capturing orcas is illegal in the United States but continues in other countries.)
Kyla’s devotion to the study of orcas is evident; the dorsal fins of orcas born the same year as she are tattooed on her right forearm. She identifies each one by the unique markings on their dorsal fins, flukes (tails) and eye patches.
A spectacular coastline with a real-life SeaWorld, a verdant landscape (oh, those trees) and the nearby Cascade Mountain Range with its dormant, snow-crusted volcanos are sufficient to bring visitors to Edmonds. But this city of 43,000 has worked hard to also become a mecca for art and food lovers.
“We had some very strong leaders in the arts and many others who had vision,” says Todd Tatum, the city’s director of community, culture and economic development for two years. “They have been cultivating communities of artists, entrepreneurs and environmental enthusiasts for decades, and it really shows when you walk down the street.”
Witness the city’s Certified Creative District, the state’s first such designated area (there are 18). Edmonds’ district is a walkable, shaded downtown that offers art galleries, museums and studios; locally owned businesses and boutiques; benches and public art; historic buildings; an iconic fountain at 5th and Main; a farmers market (early May to mid-October; supports the Edmonds Historical Museum); monthly art walks; annual artist studio tours; and a kaleidoscope of eateries.
Tried and true: Salt & Iron — Seafood, steaks and homemade pastries and superb Pacific Northwest cuisine; The Victor Tavern — Must-eats: not-what-you-think polenta fries and “everything pretzels”; Charcoal — Delectable meats and seafood from an Argentinian-style grill in a sophisticated setting with windows into Graphite, both a gallery and studios for local artists. Also offers community and school outreach.
Within Edmonds’ creative district is the 4th Avenue Cultural Corridor. A pedestrian route nicknamed “the runway” because of the lights embedded in the street, it extends from the 700-seat Edmonds Center for the Arts, a splendid Art Deco redo of the old Edmonds High School, to downtown’s vibrant Main Street. Nearby: Edmonds Driftwood Players. When volunteer thespians take the stage for the 66th season, anything can happen.
Don’t miss: Cascadia Art Museum. “Cascadia was founded by people who felt other museums in the area give short shrift to the early history of Northwest art (1860-1970),” co-founder and President Lindsay Echelberger says of the private, nonprofit, educational museum. “We feature names that are not always recognizable, but we can tell that they have made substantial contributions to the region’s cultural identity.”
Cascadia also has the largest collection of sculptures in the Northwest.
Side trips:
- Everett — 45 minutes north of Seattle. City leaders have big plans for transforming and upgrading the already expansive, walkable waterfront. A giant circular saw sculpture and storyboards tell of Everett’s perilous shingle-manufacturing past. Hotel Indigo is ideally situated for dining, children’s water-play feature and harborside walks on the artfully renovated marina. For local, organic food, do lunch at Café Wylde, then cross the street to Schack Art Center to see glass-blowing and the works of more than 200 local artists. Free.
- Snohomish — 15 minutes southeast of Everett. The Riverfront Trail provides beautiful views of the Snohomish River and a storyboard on the town’s history. The eclectic, historic downtown is replete with boutiques, restaurants and friendly faces.
See also Seattle NorthCountry.
