Being a surfer was always something I wore as a badge of honor. But this was a junior achievement badge compared to becoming a “Waterman,” something I strove for in the shallow end, but never quite achieved. Laird Hamilton is a waterman, and Bethany Hamilton is what is now called a Waterwoman.
Over the years I have interviewed many great watermen and waterwomen. The short list includes Rabbit Kekai, Shaun Tomson, Tom Carroll, Ken Bradshaw, Joey Cabell, Keala Kennelly, Debbie Beacham, Joe and Jojo Roper, Jericho Poplar and Margo Oberg. There are others less famous who belong on that list, but we don’t have room for them here.
A waterman or waterwoman, by my definition, is someone comfortable in waves 15 feet or larger. You know if you fit the bill or not. As someone stroking for the channel at the first signs of a new north swell, I decidedly do not. And yet there is this award, tall, elegant and beautiful (thank you Kevin Cole) and proudly displayed in our front room. Oceanside Longboard Surfing Club presents The Leroy Grannis Waterman award to Chris Ahrens, it says, right above the date, 2025. Pinch me. I’m dreaming.
I realize that this away was not bestowed on me for my ability to hold it together when the entire Pacific is threatening to end the life of anyone brazen enough to stand upon its waters. It had to have been bestowed in recognition of my years announcing the action for the Oceanside event, after being requested to do so by the late, great Donald Takayama and the thousands of words I have written on surfing for this column, Surfer, Surfer’s Journal, Breakout and Longboarder. At least my fingers are in shape.
But fingers don’t help when you’re scratching for the surface after being buried beneath 10 feet or more of uncaring whitewater.
Recently, for the re-release of my book, “Good Things Love Water,” the legendary Jojo Roper recounted the experience of being slammed to the bottom of a 50-foot wave at Jaws in Hawaii. Roper, who is a contender for the biggest wave of the year, is a true waterman in every sense of the word.
Waves of gratitude flood my soul in appreciation for the one and only surfing trophy I have in my house. Many thanks to Bing Cosby Jr. of the Oceanside Longboard Surfing Club, and the man who introduced me, California Surf Museum’s Jim Marmack. I am totally humbled and beyond stoked by this honor, and it offered great currency to my grandchildren who looked on in disbelief as grandpa was honored by his heroes.
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It was once said that Swami’s could not break without Richard “RC” Cordes being in the water or on the beach. Since the mid-1970s, RC could be seen surfing Swami’s. If not, he could be found reading on the beach, greeting friends as they strolled by. To the sorrow of all who knew him, RC recently passed. A paddle out to celebrate his rich life is planned at Swami’s at 10 a.m. on Sunday, Aug. 24. RC would love seeing you there.
