It’s been over 32 years since I first sat with surfers Sam Armstrong, John Otterson, Fred Borelli, Ignacio Felix, Rusty Preisendorfer, Tyler Callaway and Debbie Beacham to discuss holding a surfing contest. While that room housed centuries of combined experience on riding waves, few among us had any idea on how to judge surfers in a contest event.
Still, we hammered out the details of a charity whose goal was to have a great time, eat great food and raise money for the UCSD Moores Cancer Center research and development team.
As the evening progressed, it was agreed that a big attraction to the event would be the legendary surfers we intended on inviting. From that first year on, all of them and their teammates (we decided on a team event) surfed their hearts out to battle a disease that has affected everyone, directly and indirectly.
Over the years, we were invaded by the living history of surfing, embodied by legends like Rabbit Kekai, Donald Takayama, David Nuuhiwa, Rell Sunn, Margo Oberg, Kathy “Gidget” Kohner-Zuckerman, Dale Velzy, Greg Noll, Jock Sutherland, Gerry Lopez, Buzzy Kerbox, Rob Machado, Joel Tudor, Mike Tabling, Skip Frye, Larry Gordon, Floyd Smith, Mike Hynson, Carl and Woody Ekstrom, Mickey Munoz, Herbie Fletcher, Bruce Brown, Robert August, Wingnut, Mark Martinson, Peter Townend, Ian and Alisha Cairns, Hank Warner, Bird, Joe and JoJo Roper, John Van Hamersveld, Claude Codgen, actor Cliff Robertson, who played a character inspired by Malibu legend Terry “Tubesteak” Tracy in the movie “Gidget,” along with the legendary Tubesteak himself. Elvira, Mistress of the Dark once attended, but remained dry and out of costume, and nobody recognized her.
Held at Scripps Pier in La Jolla, the contest has traditionally featured decent to excellent waves. This year was no exception, with 2- to 3-foot peaks ridden by tag teams of talented longboarders and shortboarders.
After dedicating nearly half of his life to this contest, Sam Armstrong retired from his post and instead sponsored a winning surf team, taking home beautiful trophies fashioned after those from the Duke Kahanamoku International Surfing Championships, held at Sunset Beach, Hawaii.
One thing making this event special is that surfers of all abilities are able to meet and surf with their heroes— the men and women whose photos have decorated their bedroom walls since they were gremmies. This year’s standouts included Debbie Beacham, Izzi Gomez, Damian Hobgood, Pat O’Connell, Robert “Wingnut” Weaver, Jojo Roper, Jock Sutherland and Buzzy Kerbox, and judges Peter Townend, Joe Roper and Mike Downey.
While the emphasis was on healing cancer, I must admit I was suffering from another type of disease. My illness began last year over a disagreement on who would use a certain microphone. Childish, I know. To my shame, the incident was not resolved after months of festering in my gut, and an emotional cancer ate at me.
After praying for deliverance from my burden that morning, I found my so-called opponent, not angry as I imagined he would be, but greeting me with a smile and an open hand before we shared words of friendship and healing with the crowd.
While science and surfing are not always linked in conversation, this Sept. 13, they achieved common ground along with another member of that blessed trinity, forgiveness.
