At this time of year in Southern California, figs are in season. But if not picked immediately, they will fall to the ground and become fodder for your local squirrels. The crop will arrive in force over the first few weeks in September and then disappear until next year.
When I lived near New York City, I visited a wide range of Asian and East Indian restaurants whose condiments were served on a lazy Susan on a table filled with Naan bread, pickled vegetables and at least three different chutneys.
It became my mission to experiment with different varieties of chutneys until I arrived at the perfect combination of sweet, spicy and slightly pungent flavors.
WHAT IS CHUTNEY?
In a 2018 cooking column, Paula Hingley describes chutney as “a sweet and savory preserved condiment that’s very popular in the Indian and British cultures. It is a great saucy accompaniment to a range of dishes, like meats, cheeses and stews. Chutney delivers a nice tangy kick that offsets the flavors of whatever you combine it with. …
“You can use up many of the fruits and vegetables that might be in your refrigerator such as apples, pears, peppers or eggplant. Always start with onions, garlic and ginger and an assortment of spices such as cinnamon, cardamon, cloves and chili.”
I have found that once you find a basic recipe, such as our Fig Chutney, you can add or subtract ingredients you like or dislike. For example, if you are serving chicken, pork or shrimp, use a hot, spicy chutney with ancho chile, smoked paprika and lots of ginger.
When serving a charcuterie platter, you might hold off on the hot spices and add cinnamon, cardamon and cloves to the mix.
FIG CHUTNEY (Adapted from SavorySpin.com)
Note: This recipe features figs, but when not in season, substitute a combination of mango, pears and apples. The recipe can be doubled and stored in Mason jars for at least two weeks or processed according to canning directions. Check “The Mason Jar Cookbook” for the canning process. Fresh figs are available at local health food stores and fruit and vegetable markets in the area.
INGREDIENTS
- 4 local figs (be certain they are ripe, but not overly soft)
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- ½ yellow onion, chopped
- 3 cloves garlic, chopped
- 2 teaspoons fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
- ¼ cup brown sugar
- ¼ cup red wine vinegar
- ½ teaspoon smoked or Hungarian paprika
- ¼ teaspoon cinnamon
- ¼ teaspoon cloves
- ¼ teaspoon dried ancho chile, seeded and crushed
PROCESS
1. Add chopped ginger, garlic and onion to heavy saucepan. Sauté over medium heat until caramelized. Add all spices to onion mixture until onions are covered with spices. Be careful not to burn.
2. Wash and dry figs, chop into small pieces. Add figs, sugar, vinegar to onion mix.
3. Turn up heat on the stove to medium/medium high. Simmer for 10 minutes, stirring often.
4. At the 10-minute mark, when liquid has been reduced and seems to have thickened, remove from pan and let cool.
STORAGE
Fig Chutney can be used immediately, but always mellows with age. I have made this condiment and other jams during the summer months, and preserved them in canning jars.
I am always amazed when I give these preserves to friends and relatives during the holidays and hear them exclaim, “You made this?” Following in my grandmother’s footsteps, I have found making preserves to be fun and satisfying.
Send us your recipes for preserved fruit, and they might just end up in our column at [email protected].
Jano Nightingale is a Master Gardener and Horticulturist and loves to cook with produce from her garden. Contact her at [email protected], or contact the Carlsbad Senior Center at 442-339-2650 to register for her gardening class.
