Few restaurant proprietors possess the audacity, dedicated staff, and unwavering determination required to successfully organize two wine dinners per month. Among them is Randy Smerik, the esteemed proprietor of Solare Ristorante located in San Diego’s vibrant Liberty Station.
As soon as I discovered that Smerik was hosting Keenan Winery, from my personal list of affordable Napa Valley favorites for an exclusive winemaker dinner featuring the esteemed Michael Keenan, I knew I couldn’t miss this extraordinary event.
Nestled in Napa Valley’s Spring Mountain District, Keenan Winery boasts a nearly 50-year legacy. In 1974, Robert Keenan acquired 180 acres of vineyards perched at 1700 feet, driven by his unwavering belief in crafting world-class wines.
The rugged mountain terrain infuses the vines with beneficial stress, resulting in wines of remarkable concentration, structure, and distinct varietal profiles. The winery, ingeniously constructed using the original stonewalls from the historic Peter Conradi Winery that once occupied the property, embarked on its maiden harvest in 1977.
In 1998, Michael Keenan, Robert’s son, assumed leadership and focused on increasing grape quality by replanting the vineyards. The estate also implemented a solar power system in 2007, providing all the energy needed for the winery, offices, visitor area, and homes.
Keenan Winery received recognition as a “green” winery from the Napa Valley Vintners, proudly displaying the Solar Powered and Sustainably Farmed label on their bottles.
Additionally, their grapes are dry farmed, except during unusual hot spells, when the on-site aquifer provides relief for their fruit.
Today, Keenan Winery produces four exceptional wines from their Spring Mountain Estate: Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot Reserve from their esteemed Mailbox Vineyard.
Additionally, they produce wines made from estate fruit blended with select Napa Valley grapes, including cabernet sauvignon, zinfandel, and mernet reserve — a proprietary blend of cab sauv, merlot, and cab franc. What I find most impressive is getting Napa Valley quality wines for very affordable prices, in the $30 to $60 range, with reserve and library wines, understandably, costing more.
A great example of this is the 2022 Summer Blend ($32) released each spring that was served at the pre-dinner reception. The chardonnay blend, with small amounts of viognier and albariño, was an ideal opener.
Before dinner, I had a brief chat with Solare’s executive chef Denice Grande. With a decade of experience at Solare and a background in cuisine and farming, Grande’s passion for creating exceptional Italian food shines through. Her expertise lies in regional Italian recipes, and she revealed, “I adore tagliolini; it was love at first sight for me when it comes to crafting pasta dishes.”
During our conversation, Grande expressed her gratitude for previous owner/executive chef Stefano Cerosoli and Brian Smerik, Randy’s son and Solare’s pizza chef. Brian diligently explores local markets to procure seasonal fresh proteins and vegetables for their ever-changing specials, which rotate every two weeks.
The first course featured Uova di Quaglia, Asparagi Grigliate e Tartufo Nero Italiano—quail eggs, grilled asparagus, and Italian black truffles. Paired with a 2020 chardonnay from Spring Mountain District, it delivered a fantastic flavor explosion, as Michael, a fan of the dish, attested. He discovered this combo via a befriended French chef.
Chef Grande impressed guests with the second course, Pappardelle Pasta al Cinghiale, a handmade pasta with wild boar Bolognese, root vegetables, and crushed pistachios. The dish perfectly complemented the 2019 Merlot, a 92-point James Suckling awardee with plum and blackberry aromas and cherry, blackberry, and cassis flavors making each bite of the Bolognese fresh.
The main course delighted guests with Brasato al Vino Rosso e Polenta — Angus beef short ribs marinated in red wine, slow-cooked, and served with polenta. The fork-split ribs, enhanced by the wine reduction and topped with flowering lemon thyme, were accompanied by a 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon. This 93-point Vinous winner featured dark cherry notes, hints of mocha, and spice.
Dessert was Chef Denice’s exquisite Cheesecake Italiano con Ricotta e Cioccolato — house-made Italian ricotta chocolate with Amarena puree and chocolate drizzles. Simply irresistible! Randy, Michael, Chef Denice, and the Solare team crafted an unforgettable winemaker dinner with flawless pairings. Visit keenanwinery.com for more details.
— Story by Rico Cassoni
Wine Bytes
— Randy Smerik, Proprietor, Solare Ristorante is hosting an Antinori Wine Dinner with 5 select Antinori Estates wines and 4-course menu designed by executive chef Denice Grande at 6:30 p.m. on June 6. Antinori is arguably the most prestigious winery in all of Italy tracing its history back to 1385. They played a large part in the “Super-Tuscan” revolution of the 1970s. Antinori Italian Wine Specialist Silvio di Silvio will narrate the evening. Tignanello Super Tuscan will be served as the premier wine. The cost is $115 + tax/gratuity per person. RSVP at 619-270-9670.
— Friend of Taste of Wine and Food, Margarite Triemstra, is hosting her 16th annual Bring Your Own Magnum (BYOM) Party from 2 to 5 p.m. on June 4 at Solare Ristorante. Guests will sip and sample magnums while nibbling on light appetizers and can dine at Solare after. Guests are asked to share with those less fortunate by bringing non-perishable food items to donate to Father Joe’s St. Vincent De Paul Village or by making a financial donation at my.neighbor.org. Thanks to Cass, Daou, Folio, Solare, Butcher Shop, and many more for donations. RSVP via [email protected] or 858-997-7634.
Rico Cassoni is the executive producer for Taste of Wine and Food. He and Founder/Advisor Frank Mangio, a renowned wine connoisseur certified by Wine Spectator, are two of the leading reviewers on the web. View their columns at tasteofwineandfood.com. Go to recent columns. Reach them at [email protected].
