The Japanese word “betsubara” roughly translates to “second stomach.” It’s typically applied to the sensation of having a little more room for dessert after a hearty meal. I’m not sure if it’s appropriately transferable to having room for another beer, but while enjoying lunch at Oceanside’s new Koakai Brewing, I definitely found time and room for more excellent beer.
The quality is no surprise thanks to the care and experience brought to Koakai Brewing by the husband and wife team of Mike and Tomomi “AJ” Aubuchon. Both are Pizza Port alums, and I last interviewed them at the short-lived Heritage BBQ.
The Aubuchons are now doing their own, new thing at Koakai, but with the same focus on craft, quality and service. Connected to the Kyoto Japanese Market, Koakai Brewing has allowed them to bring their food and beer to a neighborhood that has been important to them for many years.
From my visits to Heritage, I knew that Mike brews a perfect Helles lager. He has spent a lot of time in Germany working with brewers to understand the nuances of the style. His What R U Sinking About? brewed in collaboration with Sebastian Sauer is spectacular.
ILB: How has your first few weeks of being open gone?
AJ: A lot of our patrons from Pizza Port and Heritage have followed us here. And we have a lot of new people coming in from the residential areas all around us, as well as Fire Mountain. There isn’t really a hangout in this neighborhood with kids, dogs and family friendly. They’ve been excited and checking in to see when we open.
ILB: Some big changes on the menu.
AJ: Yes, our food menu is inspired by Japanese cuisine. But we’ve also kept the Texas-style BBQ. It’s a fusion of all that. It makes us unique and interesting.
ILB: If someone is coming in for the first time, what’s something they just have to try on your beer lineup?
AJ: Definitely our Japanese lagers. We are very proud of our Takumi rice lager. It’s 4.4% with very subtle bitterness and sweetness. We use Japanese rice which mellows out the mouthfeel and flavor. Perfect for summer weather.
We also have Uminchu inspired from Orion Beer in Okinawa, which is one of our favorites.
ILB: And on the menu?
AJ: Our smoked pork belly musubi. The musubi brings in Hawaiian culture as well. If you just want to drink beer and have something smaller portioned to eat, you must have it.
ILB: Thank you for having a Schwarzbier on tap. I love that style.
AJ: Me too! Whenever we go out and I see it, I always order it. It’s the best of both worlds: chocolatey and roasty but also lighter.
ILB: Tell me about Woody’s First Rodeo Hazy IPA.
AJ: Woody is Russell Johnson. He’s a helicopter pilot in the military and is about to retire. Woody is his call sign. And this is the first beer he brewed with Mike. He’s an investor and he has been helping with the brewing.
ILB: [question provided by local Melissa Martin who was joining for lunch and beers] What’s your connection to the Kyoto Market. It’s been a gem in our neighborhood for years and we’re so glad you’re a part of it — thank you!
AJ: I am so glad we were able to take over the market as well. I am originally from Kyoto, Japan. I moved here in 2003 to go to school. This is the store where I shopped. I became friends with the family and when they were ready to retire, they offered it to us. It worked out perfectly because we were ready to do our own thing. It felt meant to be.
Martin: This is our second time coming in and we’ve had a great time. With so much of Oceanside changing, it’s wonderful to have this market here as a neighborhood spot.
AJ: That makes me so happy. We want this place to be the neighborhood place where people come in and run into your friends, bring their families. That’s the vibe we want.
After lunch, Mike gave me the mini-tour of his customized 10-barrel brewhouse, including the recently acquired space next door that will allow Koakai to expand their seating capacity. His pride in the brewery and beers he’s producing was evident in his ebullience.
And Woody was there doing exactly what an assistant brewer gets to do: clean!
Koakai Brewing and the Kyoto Market are located just off of Oceanside Boulevard and I-5 at 559 Greenbrier Drive.
I like this beer!
Shark Bite Red ale. This Pizza Port classic has remained almost unchanged since 1992. An American red ale with a dark caramel color cascade and centennial hops. The taste harkens back to yesteryear but is as delicious and drinkable as ever.
Jeff Spanier is the co-host of I Like Beer the Podcast. Follow Spanier’s adventures on Instagram @ilikebeerthepodcast and @ilikebeerthepodcast2757 on YouTube.
