Anyone born in this century is tired of hearing how rough previous generations had it. In my youth the stories were about walking 5 miles in the snow. We now tell the children about how we surfed in the winter without wetsuits, sitting around a fire ring composed of an old car tire. While these stories are true, I don’t look forward to returning to that frigid time.
When I began surfing in 1962, wetsuits were around, but rare, and only in the form of stiff rubber jackets with beaver tails. The tails were rarely employed for warmth but left to flap in the breeze as a kind of speed indicator. (Check old footage of surfers running down the line while that black flag trains behind them.)
It wasn’t until the late ’60s that I saw what was called a “Farmer John” wetsuit. While this sleeveless garment covered everything but the arms, it was, nonetheless, a great improvement. If memory serves, they were made by Santa Cruz surf pioneer Jack O’Neill.
We were surfing Sunset Cliffs one afternoon when a friend of ours exited the water with a Farmer John. When we asked him about it, he replied, “It’s like wearing pajamas.”
Full suits that cover the entire body were not far behind, and then the cold world of surf opened up from Santa Barbara north.
The furthest north I ever surfed was on Vancouver Island in Canada. I was wearing a Rip Curl Wetsuit given me by local surfing pro, Brad Gerlach, along with a set of neoprene booties. After tearing one of the booties on a sharp rock, I was forced to retreat to shore, there to watch the crisp little waves peel into a small bay. The water, I was told, was 42 degrees. I shiver thinking about it.
This year, our local surf spots have been the coldest in recent memory, hovering at 60 degrees and below. With my full suit out for repair, I am left with a thin jacket and a “short john,” a combo that doesn’t quite do the trick.
If you’re considering a new wetsuit and don’t want to spend a ton of cash, I suggest layering. You can buy a warm jacket that will work well in all seasons but winter, and a long john to accompany it when the ocean temp plummets. Of course, you can spring for a series of suits for all occasions, but that option can be pricey.
There are many great wetsuit brands available in all the surf shops. They all look good, but some of them fall apart before the last north swell has creased the points. I suggest checking with friends before purchasing any wetsuit.
While I am not endorsed by any company, one of the best wetsuit companies I’ve encountered is Boz. They can be tailor-made to your shape, and while they are assembled in Peru, you can find an outlet to serve you in San Diego. Boz can be reached by hitting the link: mapquest.com/us/california/boz-wetsuits-402478504
Anyone considering purchasing Chris Ahrens’ newest book, “Windansea: Life. Death. Resurrection,” can send a check or money order of $89 (includes tax & S&H) to: Chris Ahrens, P.O. Box 482, San Luis Rey, CA 92068. Those preferring to use Venmo or Zelle can send the same amount by using the email: [email protected]
