Hartmut Stecher is a marathon runner, so when he takes off down the trail, we have to hustle.
We are hiking in Jasper Mountain Reserve, a 330-acre gem of a wildlife sanctuary at 3,400 feet in southeast Washington, 12 miles north of the Oregon border. Lucky for us, Stecher stops every few hundred yards to explain what we are seeing. It all looks perfectly copacetic to us: a serene, expansive, alpine landscape nestled in the Blue Mountains — a haven for humans and animals alike.
But Stecher knows better.
Decades of cattle grazing and logging have left their mark, and Stecher, president of the private, nonprofit reserve, and a small group of dedicated volunteers are working to reverse that impact.
“We remove 75% of the ponderosa pines at selected areas and leave some natural gaps here and there and fill other gaps with western larch, Douglas fir and grand fir,” says the Austrian-born Stecher, a molecular biologist who assists cancer patients in finding genetically appropriate treatments. Somehow, he finds time for work in the reserve, making it less vulnerable to disease and fire, which increases animal and bird populations.
Stecher and volunteers also build and maintain 13-plus miles of pristine mountain trails (“We rake the forest floor,” he jokes as we wind through stands of both old and new trees); construct artificial nest platforms for the “extremely rare” great gray owls; resurface dying ponds once frequented by cattle; and increase wetland areas by reintroducing rare amphibians, swamp grasses and rare bird species.
“Our one-of-a-kind trail system is designed to guide visitors through a mosaic of different habitats, from arid mountain slopes to lush, moist forests and more,” says Stecher, a self-described passionate environmentalist and ornithologist since childhood. “We don’t allow horseback riding, mountain biking, loud noises or hunting. We offer soft tourism instead of mass tourism. This includes guided tours to explain our eco-system with its habitats, birds, plants and wildlife, and small campgrounds for tents versus RVs.”
Stecher wants visitors who come to Walla Walla-area vineyards to explore the reserve too.
“Wine country tourists can enrich their trip with the beauty of nature, witness conservation efforts in action and enjoy a serene retreat that complements the vibrant atmosphere of Walla Walla,” he says.
Also in the area:
- Stella’s Homestead — In 2017, Cheryl Hansen returned home to a farm sorely neglected and embarked on a massive cleanup. The youngest of six who grew up on the 3,000 acres, she transformed the varied buildings and barns on the bucolic, creekside property into vintage lodging, which serves both as serene retreat and history museum. Wine country visitors will learn about the Hansen farm and its prominent role in the area’s wheat-farming industry. Bonus: Hansen harvests her first crop of grapes this fall.
- Waitsburg — Town of 1,100 welcomes wine country visitors who want another off-the-beaten path experience. The charming, single-street downtown is lined with Victorian-era buildings listed on the National Register of Historic Places repurposed to include:
- American 35 — Serves delectable pizza from scratch (regular and gluten-free) and small plates that meld unusual ingredients like delicata squash, goat cheese and pomegranate seeds. Owner Tom Bennett, formerly in marketing and management consulting, opened the bistro in 2022 and revels in using what he learned in his mother’s kitchen. Bonus: Monthly Trivia contests.
- Royal Block Hotel — Historic architecture meets Nordic minimalism to create a singular hotel and bar, where travelers and residents alike gather regularly for engaging discussion. Each guest room is unique, and towering walls throughout display museum-quality art collection. Bonus: Owners Tiina Jaatinen and Joe Roberts host monthly art seminars.
- Ten Ton Coffee — Pair an art gallery with great coffee and breakfast sandwiches in a welcoming, spacious milieu. Bonus: Office of the Waitsburg Times is in the rear of the shop and visitors may get a chance conversation with owner/publisher Lane Gwinn.
For more conversation and photos, visit www.facebook.com/elouise.ondash.
