As a lifelong surfer I am sympathetic to those who want the beaches reopened.
I did not, however, attend the Swami’s protest whose goal was to have our surf spots reopened.
The gathering, which was reported as peaceful, may not have accomplished gaining the sympathy of the public anyway, since many photos I saw revealed people in close proximity of one another without recommended virus protection.
My hope is that our surf community cooperates with the authorities and that we soon celebrate the reopening of our favorite breaks by riding them together.
Together, but not too close together.
There is a lot of talk about a “new normal.” For the world in general this may mean having cleaner hands and staying farther away from one another.
My hope is we also learn something about slowing down and letting nature take a breather from all of our hyperactive and often polluting movement. My hope for a surfing’s new normal is not much different.
Surfers are by nature independent and, dare I say it, somewhat self-centered. We are protective of our waves and ride several to a peak in spite of this being somewhat dangerous and causing tempers to flash hot.
As someone who has been aggressive in the water in the past, I can tell you those actions were never very satisfying.
Since we still have a little time (hopefully no more than two weeks) before our surf spots reopen, let us reflect on our tribal behavior.
On crowded days we shout and threaten and get too close for comfort, cutting our neighbors off as we insist that the gift of a free ride is somehow “My wave.”
It took me a while, but I eventually learned that no wave belonged to me and that in sharing I had the most fun.
This lesson was driven home one afternoon during a big northwest swell where the double-overhead plus surf was about as good as it ever gets in our neighborhood. It was also packed with nearly 100 riders ready to drop in to whatever section might be unattended.
I watched the waves for about an hour before deciding to simply paddle out and watch the action rather than participate in it.
The channel was deep and calm and offered a quick conveyor belt into the midst of the dense pack.
There I sat watching half a dozen surfers paddle into each wave, all shouting and cursing as every ride was ruined because of greed.
I had been there only about half an hour when someone said, “Chris has been waiting forever, the next one’s his.”
This was certainly unexpected and as the next set wave rose in the kelp I paddled to meet it, swung around, took off, drove to the bottom and turned without anyone on the shoulder.
Paddling back, I repeated the process another two times before cashing in my chips and returning to the beach, satisfied to watch the action.
Somehow in giving, I got what I had hoped to achieve through taking. I’m not sure if this sounds like karma or grace or the law of reciprocity.
It doesn’t really matter though, does it?
The point is that life is better shared. Keeping our distance in the water can become normal, new and hopefully permanent.
Here’s to a new normal and better day.
