I’ve known Steve Cleveland for so long now that I’m not even sure where I first met him.
It’s just occurred to me that I don’t know Bird Huffman’s real first name. I have no idea what his parents called him, but I’ve always known him as “Bird” and that’s what everyone I know has called him for more than 30 years now.I first met him either at Windansea through some of the […]
I had been surfing for a while in the mid-60s when Bruce Brown’s classic surf movie, “The Endless Summer” premiered. The entire movie was such a revelation for a land-locked gremmie that I barely noticed the kneeboarder flying across the screen. The wave peeled at Santa Barbara’s Sand Spit as the rider flew off into […]
I first became aware of Howard Benedict in the mid 1970s. He was a dentist and I heard that he surfed a little. Later I found that he surfed more than a little and was a phenomenal big-wave rider that would fly to Puerto Escondido during the summer’s biggest swells to ride the famed Mexican […]
On Feb. 2 I celebrated a golden anniversary as 50 years of surfing passed beneath my feet. It started with a borrowed board until I bought one of my own, a used 9-foot-6-inch Wardy with two wedged redwood stringers encasing a swatch of condensed tinted yellow foam. I was too stoked to notice that my […]
Perfect weather and good surf have blessed our coast for the past few months. No matter what you ride, it’s a great time to be a surfer, watching rippers on boards from five to 10 feet. Five fins on one. Our beaches provide quite a show of talent. And while we often praise the artist […]
My dad surfed a little in the early ‘40s. He mostly bodysurfed, however, and played around occasionally on wooden planks at Santa Monica Pier. Nonetheless, his stories and his encouragement in my early years were the primary stimulus in getting me to ride waves.
I’ve already made my stand on stand up paddle boards, or SUPs, in the lineup. Simply stated it’s this: Someone with the advantage of a paddle on a surfboard should give way on a wave to someone without one. I feel the same way about longboards sharing the lineup with shortboards. The one with the […]
Big wave riders are different than most of us, so I suppose it’s only natural they would have different dreams. To quote Bruce Brown from “Endless Summer,” the waves they ride could, “light a city the size of Honolulu for a week.” I am not so poetic, but I like to say that just one […]