The Coast News Group
Chile’s Lake District contains six volcanoes, some erupting as recent as 2015. In this photo, Osorno Volcano (8,701 feet high) is in the foreground; Cerro Tronador Volcano (11,380 feet) is to the left. “Despite the risk of volcanic eruption, residents don’t seem overly worried about living on top of pools of molten magma,” writes Anthony Garvin. Photo by Anthony Garvin
Chile’s Lake District contains six volcanoes, some erupting as recent as 2015. In this photo, Osorno Volcano (8,701 feet high) is in the foreground; Cerro Tronador Volcano (11,380 feet) is to the left. “Despite the risk of volcanic eruption, residents don’t seem overly worried about living on top of pools of molten magma,” writes Anthony Garvin. Photo by Anthony Garvin
ColumnsHit the Road

In ‘Wild Patagonia,’ photos capture a challenging terrain

Notoriously bad weather is not usually an asset for a tourist destination, but for Patagonia, high winds, heavy rains and unexpected blizzards are what keep this area of immense grandeur shared by Chile and Argentina pristine and worth seeing. 

“Bad weather may be Patagonia’s saving grace,” author and photographer Anthony Garvin said in a telephone interview from his home in Alameda. “Europeans are not interested in settling there (because of) the difficulty of the terrain, the weather and the lack of roads.”

If you are lucky enough to catch any portion of Patagonia on a good-weather day, you take photos — lots of them. And that’s what Garvin has done. He shares the images taken during two trips to Patagonia, 10 years apart, in his hard-cover, all-color, coffee-table book “Wild Patagonia.”

Wild Patagonia: Although it’s possible to travel on the margins of Patagonia in relative comfort, there are still thousands of unexplored square miles in this vast wilderness of mountains, rivers, glaciers, waterfalls and fjords. Alameda-based author and photographer Anthony Garvin gives this image of the three signature granite towers of Torres del Paine National Park. Their heights range from 8,530 feet to 9,350 feet. Photo by Anthony Garvin
Although it’s possible to travel on the margins of Patagonia in relative comfort, there are still thousands of unexplored square miles in this vast wilderness of mountains, rivers, glaciers, waterfalls and fjords. Alameda-based author and photographer Anthony Garvin gives this image of the three signature granite towers of Torres del Paine National Park. Their heights range from 8,530 feet to 9,350 feet. Photo by Anthony Garvin

Nearly every one of the tome’s 142 pages features one or two images of Patagonia’s jagged peaks, pristine rivers, lakes, fjords and glaciers, and wildlife unique to this vast, sparsely inhabited land.

Garvin, a retired environmental attorney who has “dedicated his life to the protection of the environment and the preservation of wild spaces,” grew up in the mountain-rich Pacific Northwest.

“I naively thought all mountains were like Mount Rainier and her sister volcanoes,” Garvin said.

He learned otherwise after moving to the East Coast for college, and eventually learned to appreciate the lower, less-dramatic mountains there. This didn’t quell his appetite for exploring grander peaks, though.

So when the demands of family and work subsided a bit, Garvin and his wife, Linda, spent a month in 2012 traveling through Chile and Argentina, focusing on Patagonia.

Wild Patagonia: Unlike most glaciers that are retreating, Perito Moreno Glacier in Los Glaciares National Park in Argentina’s Patagonia is advancing. Photographer Anthony Garvin caught the glacier calving – 100-foot-tall walls of ice breaking away and crashing into Lago Argentino. Photo by Anthony Garvin
Unlike most glaciers that are retreating, Perito Moreno Glacier in Los Glaciares National Park in Argentina’s Patagonia is advancing. Photographer Anthony Garvin caught the glacier calving – 100-foot-tall walls of ice breaking away and crashing into Lago Argentino. Photo by Anthony Garvin

This rugged area is about 1,200 miles long; is three times as large as California; features 452 volcanos, active and non-active; and has the largest, permanent ice cap — 4,700 square miles — outside of Antarctica and Greenland.

Besides the vastness and the notoriously bad weather, visitors also must navigate the difficulties in getting from Chile to Argentina and back. 

“The two countries don’t exactly like each other,” Garvin said, and buses that once took travelers across country borders within Patagonia were discontinued in 2020 due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Hence, travelers must return to Santiago, then fly to Buenos Aires, then fly or take a bus to your destination in Argentinian Patagonia. Reverse the process to return to Chile.

“The first time we were there in 2012, we took nine flights back and forth so we could see things,” Garvin said. “It got so that stewardesses on the airplanes started recognizing us.”

Wild Patagonia: Author and photographer Anthony Garvin captured this southern lapwing while exploring Patagonia in 2022. With luck and good planning, “the wilderness of Patagonia will continue to exist and inspire us,” he writes. “It is important to keep wild places intact to preserve reservoirs of biodiversity.” Photo by Anthony Garvin
Author and photographer Anthony Garvin captured this southern lapwing while exploring Patagonia in 2022. With luck and good planning, “the wilderness of Patagonia will continue to exist and inspire us,” he writes. “It is important to keep wild places intact to preserve reservoirs of biodiversity.” Photo by Anthony Garvin

The Garvins returned to Patagonia in 2022, and while he had some great shots from the first trip, the majority of the images in “Wild Patagonia” were taken during last year’s visit. Garvin feels lucky to have had enough fair weather to shoot to his heart’s content, but there were some challenging days.

“In Torres del Paine (National Park in Chile), twice I was trying to take some video time-lapse and wind blew over my tripod,” Garvin said. “And a trip to see the penguins was canceled because the wind was too strong. But we were able to see more of Patagonia that I hadn’t seen, especially the Lake District of Chile.”

Garvin pursues his next photographic adventure this month in Antarctica.

For more photos and discussion, visit www.facebook.com/elouise.ondash.