This is an era of “alternative” surf craft like none I’ve ever witnessed in my 55 years as a wave rider.
While being a girl and living on your own in a tent in someone’s yard may be nearly acceptable these days, in 1970 it was
You may not believe this, but I used to be better, far better, than local surfing legend Rob Machado.
While many people enjoy watching those sparrow-sized white birds with the dark markings pumping their tiny legs in a game of chicken with the waves,
I have been assigned my old beat, that narrow strip of sand and water that encompasses the beach and the surf zone, where surfing and