Sea Notes
My first surf hero
Daryl Diamond only needed one name when I first heard of him in 1962. He was Daryl, the best surfer in Montebello, which is not much of a title, but there was something else about him that made him stand out in any lineup.
Sick Surfers: Part Six Kita Fit
I first became aware of Kita Johnson while taking a boxing class. And how could I not notice: tall, radiant, blond hair streaked with pink, zebra stripped boxing gloves rocking the heavy bag with each strike. This girl is bad.
Morning flatness
I’m actually glad there’s no surf this morning, since I can see my breath and the ocean resembles some sort of Siberian ice bath. Walking across the Cardiff bridge, I watch Rob Machado and NCP master paddle board maker Mark Szymanski stroke out on sleek racing boards, where to my surprise they spin around and [...]
Closing out 2012
‘Twas the day after New Year’s
My new $100 quiver
I think you will all agree with me that surfing is still the best thrill ride, ever. From waves barely big enough to propel a surfboard forward, to waves so big and powerful the beach actually quakes as they break, riding waves runs the gamut from peaceful cruise to life threatening rush.Even so, sometimes [...]
My new $100 quiver
I think you will all agree with me that surfing is still the best thrill ride, ever. From waves barely big enough to propel a surfboard forward, to waves so big and powerful the beach actually quakes as they break, riding waves runs the gamut from peaceful cruise to life threatening rush.
Stoking the nutritional fires
I first met Suzanne Beckstrom in 1979 when we worked together at Cardiff Surf and Sport on Coast Highway in Cardiff.
Pool surfing
Jay Adams, David Hackett and Christian Hosoi, three of skateboarding’s top legends, were in my backyard a few months ago. Initially the skaters had gathered to talk about the Hosoi biography that I was co-writing. Priorities quickly shifted, however, when they noticed that I had a swimming pool in my backyard. I think it was [...]
Pool surfing
Jay Adams, David Hackett and Christian Hosoi, three of skateboarding’s top legends, were in my backyard a few months ago. Initially the skaters had gathered to talk about the Hosoi biography that I was co-writing. Priorities quickly shifted, however, when they noticed that I had a swimming pool in my backyard. I think it was [...]
Looking back on fallen friends
I first met Pat Flecky at a house I shared in Encinitas with him and Texas transplant turned Sunset Superman, Ken Bradshaw. Flecky and I became close right away, building surfboards in our garage while our roommates gagged on the fumes and, eventually made us quit spattering resin everywhere. Once the resin had dried, it [...]
